Nature – Duniart Photography

Solar & Lunar Eclipse

Tue, 07 Apr 2026 11:31:47 +0000

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Night Sky Photography

Tue, 07 Apr 2026 07:37:02 +0000

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Gunung Leuser National Park – North Sumatra

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 04:14:09 +0000

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Moremi Game Reserve & Okavango Delta

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 03:09:12 +0000

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Okavango Delta – Moremi Game Reserve

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 02:52:31 +0000

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Ju’/Hoansi San Tribe – Naye Naye Concession

Thu, 12 Mar 2026 02:15:54 +0000

Well, it turned out we had a great time and learnt a lot about traditional San culture, and it was obvious the local community was also very welcoming to this initiative and concept of a Living Museum.

Visiting the Ju’/Hoansi San in the Naye Naye Concession

Day 6: Divundu – Ju’/Hoansi San tribe, Naye Naye Concession

We drove from Divundu southwards towards Grootfontein, and just after the vet fence our GPS sent us east, onto a dirt road and deep into traditional Ju’Hoansi San tribal land.

The story of the displacement of these Indigenous people of Namibia became instantly obvious: large cattle farms followed one after another… This used to be the San people’s tribal land, but all gone and converted for commercial use.

Eventually the scenery turned more wild, and we started to see some wildlife rather than cattle. This was the area where the Ju’Hoansi San were settled, nowadays living in fairly basic small villages. Our destination was what is called a living-museum, an effort to preserve traditional culture, combined with low-impact tourism to generate some income for the local community. We were initially a little sceptical about what kind of experience this would be.

We arrived at the village before noon, where we met the local San guide to discuss the program. He explained where we could set up camp and that they would visit us early afternoon.

After lunch the San community came out in full force, men, lots of women, and children of all ages. Impressive, to say the least! It may be called a museum and these people actually live in basic brick-and-mortar houses rather than their traditional makeshift bush huts, but it really gave a very authentic feel. The guide and his assistant referred to themselves as “actors”, but also explained that their traditional daily life had not completely changed since settling in a permanent small village and that a lot of cultural practices still survive until today.

Day 7: Ju’Hoansi San – Halali Camp, Etosha National Park

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise and a relaxed morning, without our usual early morning game drive. We had asked the San women to come see us before breaking up camp and move to our next destination.

And that was our visit to the Ju’/Hoansi San. It turned out really nice, and immersive. We learnt a lot about traditional San culture, and it was obvious the local community was also very welcoming to the initiative and concept of a Living Museum.

For a much more in-depth story, check out my photo essay about the Ju’/Hoansi San tribe.

Time to drive to our next destination, the Etosha National Park. It would be my third visit to the park, and I couldn’t wait to see again the larger elephant herds, the rhinos, giraffes, lions, and hopefully again cheetah. So far, I have seen them every visit to the park!

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Brandberg Mountain & Doros Crater

Wed, 11 Mar 2026 12:03:07 +0000

Day 3 & 4 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

We didn’t really have a plan, other than that we wanted to drive to the Aba Huab riverbed, to search for desert-adapted elephant. But as we didn’t want to drive too much on tar roads, we decided to go off-road, and drive west of the Brandberg Mountain and then up north, towards the Aba Huab riverbed. We were fairly sure we could not make that in one day, so we were heading towards Rhino Trust Camp, and see where the day would end.

Day 3: Spitzkoppe – Rhino Trust Camp – Doros Crater area

Once we left the tar road we instantly felt a change; all of a sudden we were alone, surrounded with some of Namibia’s most spectacular scenery, between the Brandberg Mountain and the ancient Doros Crater.

We followed our GPS up north, towards the Rhino Trust Camp, a place we thought to perhaps put up camp.

Welwitschia, a plant unique for this part of the country. It gets most of its moisture and nutrients from the air and grows extremely slow. This plant is at least hundreds of years old and some plants are over a thousand years old.

We didn’t really like the Rhino Trust Camp site and as it was still fairly early we decided to continue up north. The landscape rapidly turned increasingly wild, and so did the road.

Somewhere between the Messum Crater and Brandberg Mountain, in the middle of extensive plains covered in granite boulders. A perfect place for our first night camping in the wild!

Namibia at its best! What to say…. A perfect night xxx

Day 4: Doros area – Twyfelfontein – De Riet – Huab riverbed

Today we were planning to drive to the Aba-Huab riverbed, where last year we saw our first desert elephants. We first had to cross the plains around the Doros crater though, towards Twyfelfontein. It was only when we got to Burnt Mountain that we saw again other people, the only person we had seen in the last 30 hours was a guard at the Rhino Trust Camp.

Early morning mist covered the plains, a scene I hadn’t seen before in Namibia. Early signs that the rainy season was not too far out anymore. It hadn’t rained here for almost 10 months.

Somewhere between Doros crater and Burnt Mountain. Honestly..? We were a bit lost and had no idea where we were exactly, but that didn’t matter. It was beautiful! Following our GPS would get us eventually to Twyfelfontein.

From Burnt Mountain we drove into the Aba-Huab riverbed, in search of desert elephants. No luck this time, so we decided to drive further upriver to De Riet, apparently an area with a high density of wildlife and occasionally also desert lions.

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Komodo National Park

Tue, 10 Mar 2026 12:30:33 +0000

Located between the islands of Sumbawa and Flores, Komodo National Park is one of Indonesia’s most extraordinary natural landscapes. Famous as the home of the prehistoric Komodo dragon, the park combines rugged savannah hills, turquoise bays, pink sand beaches, and some of the richest marine life on Earth.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Komodo National Park protects not only the world’s largest lizard but also a unique ecosystem of volcanic islands, dry savannah landscapes, and vibrant coral reefs.

Whether trekking in search of dragons, climbing island viewpoints, or sailing between remote bays, visiting Komodo is one of the most unforgettable experiences in Indonesia.

The Komodo Dragon

The park is the natural habitat of the Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis), the largest living lizard species in the world.

Adult dragons can grow up to three metres long and weigh more than 70 kilograms. As apex predators they hunt deer, wild boar, and other animals across the dry savannah landscapes of the islands.

Komodo dragons live primarily on Komodo Island, Rinca Island, and several smaller islands within the park. Visitors can observe them during guided ranger treks, which are required for safety.

Islands and Landscapes

Komodo National Park consists of more than twenty volcanic islands scattered between Flores and Sumbawa.

The most visited islands include:

Komodo Island – the largest island and home to the park’s namesake dragons
Rinca Island – known for reliable dragon sightings and open savannah landscapes
Padar Island – famous for its spectacular hilltop viewpoint overlooking three crescent-shaped bays

Dry grass-covered hills, rugged coastlines, and turquoise waters create one of the most photogenic island landscapes in Southeast Asia.

Several beaches within the park are also known for their pink-tinted sand, created by microscopic coral fragments mixing with white sand.

Marine Life and Diving

Beyond its terrestrial wildlife, Komodo National Park is also one of the world’s premier marine environments.

Strong ocean currents bring nutrient-rich waters through the channels between islands, supporting an extraordinary diversity of marine life.

Divers and snorkellers may encounter manta rays, reef sharks, sea turtles, large schools of tropical fish, and extensive coral reef systems.

Many of the reefs are accessible even to snorkellers, particularly in sheltered bays around the islands.

UNESCO World Heritage Status

Komodo National Park was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991 in recognition of its exceptional biodiversity and conservation importance.

The protected area covers both terrestrial and marine ecosystems, preserving the habitat of the Komodo dragon while safeguarding coral reefs and marine species throughout the region.

Today the park remains one of Indonesia’s most important conservation areas.

Visiting Komodo National Park

Most journeys to Komodo National Park begin in Labuan Bajo, a coastal town on the western tip of Flores that serves as the main gateway to the islands.

Visitors typically explore the park by boat.

Options include:

Day trips by speedboat from Labuan Bajo
Multi-day liveaboard sailing trips between the islands
Diving cruises focused on the park’s world-class dive sites

Many itineraries combine dragon trekking on Komodo or Rinca with island viewpoints, snorkeling stops, and visits to remote beaches.

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Kelimutu Volcano

Tue, 10 Mar 2026 09:17:24 +0000

Mount Kelimutu is one of the most remarkable natural sites on Flores Island in Indonesia, famous for its three crater lakes that periodically change colour. Located at an elevation of 1,639 metres in the highlands of central Flores, Kelimutu forms part of Kelimutu National Park, a protected volcanic landscape surrounded by forest and traditional villages.

The three lakes – each with its own colour and meaning – lie close together at the summit of the volcano. Over time they have appeared in shades of turquoise, green, black, red and brown, creating one of the most unusual geological phenomena in Southeast Asia.

For the Lio people of Flores, Kelimutu is more than a volcanic landmark. The lakes are believed to be the resting places of ancestral souls, and their changing colours reflect the spiritual state of the departed.

About the Kelimutu Crater Lakes

The three lakes of Kelimutu sit side by side at the summit of the volcano but differ in both colour and cultural meaning.

Tiwu Ata Mbupu – Lake of the Ancestors
Located on the western side of the crater, this lake is traditionally believed to be the resting place of older souls. It often appears dark blue or almost black.

Tiwu Ko’o Fai Nuwa Muri – Lake of Young Souls
This lake is usually turquoise or green and is believed to receive the souls of young people.

Tiwu Ata Polo – Lake of Evil Spirits
The third lake, sometimes appearing reddish or brown, is traditionally associated with troubled or restless spirits.

Although the lakes lie only metres apart, their colours frequently differ dramatically. These variations are caused by chemical reactions between volcanic gases and minerals rising from beneath the surface.

Kelimutu National Park

Kelimutu forms the centrepiece of Kelimutu National Park, an important protected area on Flores known for its volcanic landscapes, forests and endemic wildlife.

The surrounding hills are covered with montane forest and support a rich variety of bird species and plant life. Several endemic species occur here, making the area ecologically important beyond the famous crater lakes themselves.

Visiting Kelimutu

The most popular time to visit Kelimutu is at sunrise, when the weather is usually clearest before clouds move in later in the day.

Most travellers stay in the nearby village of Moni, located at the foot of the mountain.

From Moni, a paved road climbs toward the summit parking area. From there a 30-minute walk through forest leads to viewing platforms overlooking the crater lakes.

Best base: Moni
Best time of day: Sunrise
Access: Road + short forest walk
Elevation: 1,639 m

Moni Village

Moni is the main gateway village for visiting Kelimutu and lies along the Trans-Flores route between Ende and Maumere.

The surrounding landscape is fertile and scenic, with rice fields, waterfalls and forested hills. For travellers who stay longer, the area offers good opportunities for walking and exploring the wider region.

The traditional Moni market takes place on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, with Monday being the busiest day. Women from surrounding villages arrive wearing beautifully woven Lio ikat textiles, creating a colourful and lively scene early in the morning.

Hiking from Kelimutu to Moni

Instead of returning by car, it is possible to hike from the summit of Kelimutu down to Moni.

The trail passes through forest rich in birdlife and through traditional villages that are otherwise difficult to reach. The hike takes approximately five to six hours, mostly downhill.

Spending two nights in Moni allows time to experience both the sunrise at Kelimutu and the surrounding landscapes of the national park.

Location

Kelimutu is located in central Flores, Indonesia, between the towns of Ende and Maumere.

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Damaraland & Kaokoland Riverbeds

Thu, 05 Mar 2026 06:28:32 +0000

The remote landscapes of Damaraland and Kaokoland reveal one of the most striking desert ecosystems in Africa. Vast gravel plains, rugged mountains and wide sandy riverbeds shape a wilderness where wildlife survives under extreme conditions. Along dry river valleys, desert-adapted elephants move slowly between scattered trees, lions patrol immense territories, and traditional pastoral communities continue to live across the open desert.

For travelers and photographers, these regions offer a rare sense of scale and isolation. Wildlife, geology and culture remain closely connected here, unfolding across landscapes that feel both ancient and largely unchanged by modern development.

Remote River Valleys of Northwestern Namibia

Much of northwestern Namibia is defined by ephemeral rivers — dry river systems that flow only after seasonal rains. For most of the year these rivers appear as wide sandy valleys winding through desert mountains and gravel plains.

Although they may seem empty, these riverbeds form vital ecological corridors across the arid landscape. Beneath the surface, moisture remains trapped in the sand, allowing vegetation such as ana trees and acacias to grow where the surrounding terrain is otherwise barren.

Wildlife follows these corridors through the desert. Elephants move along the riverbeds in search of water and food, antelope gather where vegetation is most abundant, and predators track their movements across the open terrain.

For those exploring Damaraland and Kaokoland, these dry rivers become natural routes through the landscape — places where wildlife, vegetation and geology intersect in the vast deserts of northwestern Namibia.

Where Are Damaraland and Kaokoland?

Damaraland and Kaokoland are located in the Kunene Region of northwestern Namibia, forming one of the most remote landscapes in southern Africa. These vast desert regions stretch from the Skeleton Coast in the west to the interior highlands of northern Namibia and the border with Angola, covering immense areas of desert mountains, gravel plains and dry river valleys.

Among these valleys are some of Namibia’s most famous ephemeral rivers, including the Aba Huab, Hoanib and Hoarusib. For most of the year these rivers appear as broad sandy corridors through the desert, yet they form vital lifelines for wildlife moving across the arid landscapes.

Today, Damaraland and Kaokoland remain among the least populated regions in southern Africa. Wildlife still follows ancient migration routes through the dry river systems, while traditional pastoral communities such as the Himba continue to live across these vast open landscapes.

Damaraland and Kaokoland Landscapes

The remote northwestern corner of Namibia is often described using two names: Damaraland and Kaokoland.

Damaraland refers broadly to the rugged region between the Skeleton Coast and Etosha National Park. It is characterized by rocky mountains, open plains and scattered river systems such as the Aba Huab and Huab rivers. The area is known for its desert-adapted elephants and ancient cultural sites like Twyfelfontein.

Further north lies Kaokoland, one of the most isolated areas in southern Africa. The terrain becomes wilder and more remote, with dramatic valleys such as the Hoanib and Hoarusib rivers cutting through vast desert landscapes toward the Atlantic Ocean.

Both regions are part of Namibia’s Kunene Region, named after the Kunene River that forms the border with Angola. Yet the names Damaraland and Kaokoland remain widely used to describe the landscapes and travel routes of northwestern Namibia.

Together they form one of the most remarkable wilderness areas in Africa.

The Aba Huab River

The Aba Huab River is one of the most accessible dry river systems in Damaraland and offers a striking introduction to the region’s desert landscapes.

During most of the year the riverbed appears as a wide corridor of pale sand cutting through rocky hills and gravel plains. Tall ana trees grow along the banks, their deep roots reaching underground moisture hidden beneath the sand.

Driving through the Aba Huab riverbed reveals how wildlife adapts to the desert environment.

Desert-adapted elephants are frequently encountered moving slowly through the sandy valleys, feeding on tree bark and vegetation along the riverbanks. Giraffes and antelope occasionally appear among the scattered trees, while tracks in the sand reveal the presence of predators that move through the valley at night.

Further north, beyond areas such as De Riet, the landscape becomes increasingly remote. The riverbed winds through wide desert plains framed by distant mountains, creating scenes that feel both empty and alive at the same time.

For photographers, the Aba Huab offers dramatic compositions: elephants moving between trees, animals silhouetted against open desert horizons, and the textures of sand and stone defining the landscape.

The Hoanib River and Amspoort

Among Namibia’s desert rivers, the Hoanib River is perhaps the most famous.

Originating in the mountains of Kaokoland, the river winds westward toward the Atlantic Ocean, carving a vast valley through the desert. For most of the year the Hoanib appears dry, but its sandy channels support remarkable biodiversity.

Tall ana trees line parts of the riverbed, creating green corridors across an otherwise barren landscape. Wildlife follows these routes as they move through the desert.

Desert-adapted elephants are regularly seen traveling through the Hoanib valley, digging into the sand to access hidden water sources. Giraffes, springbok and oryx graze in the surrounding plains, while predators such as lions and hyenas patrol the wider region.

Near Amspoort, the Hoanib riverbed cuts dramatically between rugged mountains. The surrounding terrain becomes increasingly spectacular, with steep rocky slopes and wide sandy plains opening toward the Skeleton Coast.

In these remote valleys, the scale of Namibia’s desert landscapes becomes fully apparent.

Puros and the Hoarusib Valley

Far to the north, near the small settlement of Puros, the Hoarusib River flows through one of the most remote parts of Namibia.

The Hoarusib valley is a classic Kaokoland landscape: towering mountains, vast sandy riverbeds and scattered Himba settlements spread across an immense and sparsely populated region.

Wildlife here has adapted to the harsh desert conditions in remarkable ways.

Desert-adapted elephants move along the Hoarusib riverbed, traveling long distances between water sources. Even more famously, the region has been home to small populations of desert-adapted lions, which have learned to survive in one of the driest environments on the continent.

Encounters with wildlife in these landscapes feel different from those in more traditional safari destinations. Animals appear as part of the landscape rather than as isolated subjects, moving slowly across immense desert horizons.

For photographers, Puros and the Hoarusib valley offer some of the most dramatic desert scenery in southern Africa.

Beyond its dramatic landscapes and wildlife, the region around Puros is also home to Himba pastoral communities who have lived in the remote valleys of Kaokoland for generations. Small Himba settlements are scattered across the Hoarusib valley and surrounding mountains, where families herd goats and cattle across the arid terrain.

The Himba are known for their distinctive cultural traditions, including the use of otjize, a mixture of butterfat and red ochre applied to the skin and hair for protection against the desert climate. Despite the harsh conditions of the region, these pastoral communities continue to maintain a close relationship with the land and seasonal grazing routes.

Encounters with Himba communities in this remote part of Namibia offer a glimpse into a way of life shaped by both desert landscapes and long-standing cultural traditions.

Learn more about the Himba Tribe of Namibia.

Desert-Adapted Elephants and Lions

One of the most fascinating aspects of northwestern Namibia is the presence of desert-adapted wildlife.

Unlike typical savanna elephants, the elephants of Damaraland and Kaokoland have adapted to survive in extremely arid conditions. They travel long distances between food and water sources, often moving along dry riverbeds where vegetation is more abundant.

These elephants are not a separate species but rather a population that has developed behavioral adaptations suited to the desert environment.

They tend to move in smaller family groups and cover vast territories in search of food.

Even more extraordinary are the desert-adapted lions of the region. These lions roam the remote valleys of Kaokoland, hunting antelope, seals along the Skeleton Coast, and occasionally livestock near remote settlements.

Their survival in such harsh conditions is a testament to the resilience of wildlife in Namibia’s desert ecosystems.

Related Destinations in Namibia

Several other regions explored on this site reveal different aspects of Namibia’s landscapes and cultures.

Etosha National Park
Wildlife gathers around waterholes across vast salt pan landscapes in one of Africa’s great safari destinations.

The Himba Tribe of Namibia
A pastoral culture living in the remote Kunene Region, known for their distinctive traditions and deep connection to the land.

The Zambezi Region (Caprivi Strip)
A lush corridor of rivers and wetlands in northeastern Namibia where wildlife and birdlife gather along the Zambezi, Kwando and Chobe rivers.

Wildlife Photography in Kaokoland and Damaraland

For wildlife photographers, the river valleys of northwestern Namibia offer a very different experience from traditional safari destinations.

The landscapes are vast and open, and wildlife encounters often unfold slowly across immense distances.

Rather than dense vegetation, the environment is defined by sand, rock and sky. Animals appear as part of the landscape, often framed by dry riverbeds, scattered trees and distant mountain ranges.

Photographing wildlife here requires patience and observation.

Long telephoto lenses are useful for isolating animals across wide plains, while wider focal lengths allow photographers to capture wildlife within the broader desert environment.

Light also plays an important role. Early morning and late afternoon often produce dramatic shadows and warm tones across the sandy riverbeds and rocky hills.

Dust, dry air and immense horizons create images that feel raw and elemental — reflecting the harsh beauty of Namibia’s desert wilderness.

Stories from Damaraland and Kaokoland

Over several journeys through Namibia, I have explored many of the dry river systems of Damaraland and Kaokoland.

Each visit revealed different aspects of these landscapes — from encounters with desert elephants in the Aba Huab riverbed to the dramatic scenery of the Hoanib valley and the remote settlements around Puros.

The following stories document these journeys through some of Namibia’s most remote regions.

Photo Galleries from Kaokoland and Damaraland

The desert landscapes of northwestern Namibia offer extraordinary photographic opportunities.

From vast sandy riverbeds and rugged mountain ranges to intimate encounters with desert-adapted wildlife, the region presents a visual narrative shaped by geology, climate and survival.

The galleries below explore these landscapes through photography.

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Photo Galleries – Nature

Sun, 01 Mar 2026 04:15:53 +0000

— PHOTO GALLERIES —

visual collections

Photo Galleries nature

Solar & Lunar Eclipse

Night Sky Photography

Gunung Leuser National Park - North Sumatra

Kawah Ijen - East Java

Way Kambas National Park - South Sumatra

Mount Rinjani National Park - Lombok

Tanjung Puting National Park - Central Kalimantan

Kelimutu Volcano - Central Flores

Lake Tamblingan - Central Bali

Baluran National Park - East Java

Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park - East Java

Komodo National Park - West Flores

Spitzkoppe & Doros Crater

Swakopmund & Walvisbay

Zambezi Region: Mahango & Kavango River

Puros & Kaokoland

Palmwag Conservancy

Hoanib Riverbed

Aba-Huab Riverbed

Sossusvlei & the Namib Desert

Etosha National Park

Okavango Delta - Moremi Game Reserve

Chobe National Park

Khwai Community Concession

Moremi Game Reserve

Savuti - Chobe National Park

Serengeti Mara

Serengeti National Park - Seronera

Olduvai Gorge

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Tarangire National Park

Yala National Park

Kaudulla National Park

Minneriya National Park

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Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Sat, 21 Dec 2024 14:16:54 +0000

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Chobe National Park

Mon, 02 Dec 2024 12:05:34 +0000

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Khwai Community Concession

Wed, 27 Nov 2024 12:12:43 +0000

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Moremi Game Reserve

Wed, 27 Nov 2024 12:11:50 +0000

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Savuti – Chobe National Park

Wed, 27 Nov 2024 12:11:45 +0000

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Kawah Ijen – East Java

Mon, 03 Jun 2024 12:15:55 +0000

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Kuang Si Waterfalls

Mon, 03 Jun 2024 01:39:04 +0000

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Way Kambas National Park – South Sumatra

Sun, 02 Jun 2024 09:47:22 +0000

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Mount Rinjani National Park – Lombok

Sun, 02 Jun 2024 06:56:07 +0000

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Tanjung Puting National Park – Central Kalimantan

Sat, 01 Jun 2024 12:13:19 +0000

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Schladminger Tauern – Austria

Sat, 14 Oct 2023 04:15:40 +0000

Nature

Click here for a MAP or PHOTO STORY:

Map

Story

Photos from a 6 days and 5 nights hike through Austria’s northern Alps, somewhere south of Salzburg. The Schladminger Tauern are perhaps one of Austria’s best kept secrets and an absolute top destination for what can only be described as a still authentic and completely unspoiled hiking paradise.

Click any photo for full screen view and to scroll through the Gallery.

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Map

Story

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Kelimutu Volcano – Central Flores

Sat, 01 Apr 2023 10:31:41 +0000

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Lake Tamblingan – Central Bali

Fri, 31 Mar 2023 10:33:46 +0000

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Yala National Park

Sat, 27 Jun 2020 06:29:53 +0000

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Kaudulla National Park

Sat, 27 Jun 2020 06:26:13 +0000

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Minneriya National Park

Sat, 27 Jun 2020 06:22:16 +0000

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Spitzkoppe & Doros Crater

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:50:42 +0000

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Swakopmund & Walvisbay

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:40:26 +0000

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Zambezi Region: Mahango & Kavango River

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:30:47 +0000

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Puros & Kaokoland

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:28:42 +0000

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Palmwag Conservancy

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:26:37 +0000

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Hoanib Riverbed

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:23:18 +0000

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Aba-Huab Riverbed

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:18:47 +0000

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Sossusvlei & the Namib Desert

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:09:39 +0000

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Etosha National Park

Sun, 21 Jun 2020 06:57:38 +0000

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Serengeti National Park – Mara Region

Sat, 13 Jun 2020 04:26:46 +0000

Serengeti Mara – The Great Migration and Mara River Crossings

Day 9, 10 & 11 of 12 – Tanzania Safari Trip

Today we would leave the central plains of Seronera and move north toward the Mara River region — the remote area known as the Serengeti Mara. It would be the longest drive of our safari, crossing vast stretches of open country before reaching the northern Serengeti. The river itself was still many hours away. Between us and that invisible line on the map lay a full day of savanna.

Despite the distance, we were in no hurry. Migration season follows its own rhythm, and so did we. We had the time — and the freedom — to stop whenever wildlife appeared along the way. The journey north would not simply be a transfer day, but part of the experience itself.

From Central Serengeti to Serengeti Mara

After leaving the central plains behind and turning north, the morning still felt cool and quiet. Not long after we departed camp, movement in a tree caught our attention. Several vultures were perched heavily on bare branches, their silhouettes unmistakable against the pale sky. A hyena lingered nearby, circling with casual patience.

There had to be a kill somewhere close.

We scanned the grass for lions, drove slow loops through the surrounding area, checked termite mounds and shaded patches under trees. Nothing. Whatever had happened here had already run its course. The bush had returned to silence.

About an hour later, we found our first lions of the day. A small group rested beneath a lone acacia, bellies full, paws stretched out in complete indifference to the world. Only a few dozen meters away, springbok grazed nervously but undisturbed. The lions barely lifted their heads. They had clearly eaten earlier. For now, hunting was the last thing on their minds.

We continued north.

A few hours later, another pride appeared — this time gathered around the remains of a wildebeest carcass. The scene felt more raw. Flies hovered in the warm air, and scraps of hide lay scattered in the dust. One of the females had cubs with her, their curiosity pulling them toward the remains before they retreated again to the safety of their mother’s flank. It was both brutal and tender at the same time — the rhythm of the Serengeti condensed into a single moment.

And then the landscape began to change.

The scenery became increasingly green.

What at first seemed like a subtle shift in tone slowly turned into something more noticeable. The grass looked fresher here. Thicker. Almost lush in places. That wasn’t necessarily a good sign.

When we finally encountered our first herd of wildebeest, grazing calmly far from any river, a quiet doubt settled in. Were we too early?

The animals seemed in no hurry. Heads down. Scattered formation. No urgency in their movement.

We passed the herd and drove on, but over the next few hours our optimism began to waver. The tall grass in some areas was still yellow and abundant. Wildlife sightings became sparse. A couple of hartebeest stood silhouetted against the open plains, but otherwise the landscape felt empty.

If the grass was still good here, why would the migration push north?

By late afternoon the light softened, turning golden as we approached Kimburu Camp. The scenery had been beautiful. The lion sightings memorable. Yet in the back of my mind a quiet concern lingered: had I timed our entire Tanzania trip just a little too early?

Kimburu Camp

Kimburu Camp was seasonal — and we were its first guests of the year.

Technically, the camp wasn’t even officially open yet. We had special permission to stay, without the usual full service. That made it feel even more exclusive, almost like stepping into a place that wasn’t quite awake for the season.

Six tents. No electricity. Oil lamps after dark. Open dining tent.

For the entire stay, we were the only guests.

Luxury, in its purest form.

It was understated, intimate — and absolutely perfect for us.

From our tent, we could see endless plains stretching north. The Mara River was only a short drive away, as was the bridge allowing us to cross into the Maasai Mara.

We ended the day with dinner under under oil lamps and a canvas roof, just the two of us and a handful of Maasai staff, the plains stretching into darkness around us.

Satisfied with the day’s sightings — but still wondering whether we had arrived just a little too early.

Somewhere out there, the herds were getting close… Close enough?

Absolute silence once night settled in. Maybe too silent..?

The Great Migration in the Serengeti Ecosystem

Each year, more than a million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, move in a vast circular pattern through northern Tanzania and southern Kenya. The migration is not a single event but a continuous search for fresh grass, driven almost entirely by rainfall.

From the southern plains of Ndutu, where calves are born early in the year, the herds gradually move north through the central Serengeti. By mid-year, many gather near the Mara River — one of the most formidable obstacles on their route.

There is no fixed schedule. Some years the crossings begin earlier, some later. The animals respond only to grass and rain. For visitors, timing is always part anticipation, part uncertainty.

Sunrise in Camp

One of the most memorable mornings of our lives began quietly.

Warm water delivered to the tent. The smell of coffee. The soft light of dawn spreading across camp.

It felt almost surreal to be looked after by half a dozen Maasai staff — just for us.

The camp team mentioned that a herd had been seen nearby, moving toward the river.

Not guaranteed to cross.

But close.

That was enough…

The Mara River

Right after breakfast we drove straight toward the Mara River. First things first.

If anything was happening, it would happen there.

The riverbanks were quiet.

A few birds picked along the shoreline. A lone hippo surfaced briefly before disappearing again into the opaque water. No nervous herds. No gathering mass of wildebeest. No tension in the air.

The Mara River banks looked calm.

Deceptively calm…

It was hard to imagine that this same stretch of water could, within hours, turn into one of the most chaotic wildlife spectacles on earth.

We followed the river for a while, scanning both banks carefully. Nothing.

So we widened our search and drove out into the surrounding savanna.

The grass moved softly in the morning breeze. A few birds lifted off as we passed. Otherwise, silence.

Hartebeest grazed in the distance, entirely unconcerned. If a crossing was imminent, they hadn’t received the memo.

An hour passed.

The optimism we had carried from camp began to thin.

Maybe the staff had been wrong. Maybe the herd they’d mentioned had changed direction. Maybe we were still too early after all.

We chose a promising viewpoint on the savanna.

And we waited.

Time moves differently when you are waiting for something you have dreamed about for decades.

Then —

Movement.

At first, just dust on the horizon.

So faint we weren’t even sure.

Then sound.

Low at first. A distant murmur. Almost like wind.

And then numbers.

Dark shapes began to materialize against the pale grass. Small at first. Then multiplying. Lines turning into clusters. Clusters into a moving wall.

They were coming.

Surrounded

Within minutes, we were encircled by wildebeest.

Thousands.

The noise was overwhelming — grunts, hooves, snorting breath. Dust thick in the air. The smell sharp and raw.

The herd moved as a single, restless organism.

They edged closer to the river.

Retreated.

Advanced again.

Instinct battling hesitation.

What had looked like unstoppable momentum from a distance dissolved into hesitation as they reached the riverbank. The front lines stalled. Individuals stepped forward, then back. Heads lifted. Sniffing. Listening.

And then, unexpectedly, the entire mass drifted sideways and spread out across an open plain just off the river.

They began to graze.

After all that movement, all that dust and noise, the wildebeests simply lowered their heads and started feeding. Perhaps they needed energy. Perhaps instinct told them not to rush. Perhaps they were waiting for a signal no human could detect.

Why the Mara River Crossing Is So Dramatic

The Mara River is not especially wide, but it is unpredictable. Steep banks, strong currents, hidden rocks, and crocodiles make every crossing a calculated risk.

Wildebeest hesitate for hours, sometimes days. They gather in large numbers, move forward, retreat, circle back. It takes only one animal to leap before instinct overtakes hesitation.

What follows is rarely orderly. Panic spreads quickly. Animals collide, stumble, scramble for footing. Some are swept downstream. Some do not make it.

It is not choreography. It is survival compressed into minutes.

For nearly an hour the wildebeests remained there — restless, shifting, but not committing.

Then slowly, almost imperceptibly, the mood changed.

The herd tightened again.

The grazing stopped.

Lines formed toward the riverbank.

The tension returned.

They approached the edge once more, pressing closer this time. The animals at the front leaned forward, hooves testing the muddy slope. The river below moved steadily, brown and unreadable.

And then —

Suddenly, one jumped.

Then another.

Then dozens.

And then the entire herd surged forward.

Bodies collided. Water exploded upward. The current churned brown and violent as hundreds of wildebeest threw themselves into the Mara River.

The first river crossing of our trip unfolded directly in front of us.

A childhood dream materialized in real time.

The noise was overwhelming — grunts, splashes, the desperate scramble of hooves against mud and rock. Dust hung in the air behind them while the river frothed beneath them.

One animal didn’t make it.

For a brief moment, chaos tightened around a single point. Then it was over.

A reminder that this spectacle is survival, not choreography.

On the far bank — the “promised land” — exhausted wildebeest hauled themselves out, dripping and disoriented, sides heaving, eyes wide.

Crocodiles lingered just beneath the surface, barely visible now.

Life and death had played out in seconds.

And then, as suddenly as it had begun, the river grew quiet again. The first herd had crossed the Mara River.

We stood there speechless.

Tears in our eyes.

We hugged.

“We did it.”

Into the Maasai Mara

The crossing itself lasted no more than an hour.

As quickly as it had erupted, it dissolved again into stillness. The river resumed its deceptive calm, as if nothing extraordinary had just taken place.

Eventually, we decided to move as well.

We drove toward the small bridge that spans the Mara River, into the fresh green savanna of the Maasai Mara.

Serengeti and Maasai Mara – One Ecosystem, Two Names

Though divided by an international border, the Serengeti in Tanzania and the Maasai Mara in Kenya form a single ecological system.

Wildlife moves freely between them. The migration does not recognize boundaries.

For travelers, however, the distinction matters. Park regulations differ. Entry points differ. Crowds differ. Even landscapes shift subtly — the Maasai Mara often greener, its rolling hills more pronounced.

Standing at the river, watching herds cross from one country to another, the border feels administrative rather than natural.

On the far side, the landscape looked different. Greener. Almost softer.

We soon found the herd again.

Now they were scattered across the open plains, grazing and resting as if the madness of the river had never happened. Their goal had been achieved. The tension was gone. Some lay down. Others fed quietly. Calves stayed close to their mothers.

The “promised land.”

Fresh grass everywhere.

Life, for the moment, had won.

Not far from the herd, we spotted two cheetahs resting on a slight rise. Elegant. Alert. Watching.

They had clearly witnessed the crossing too.

Unlike us, though, they weren’t emotional about it.

They seemed patient. Calculating. The wildebeest were tired, disorganized, distracted. Opportunity would come — but there was no need to rush. The savanna had just delivered hundreds of potential meals to her side of the river.

Predators, too, understand timing.

We stayed with them for a while, watching them scan the grazing mass below.

The river crossing had been drama.

This was strategy.

Back Toward Camp

With the sun slowly dropping toward the horizon, we made our way back across the bridge into Tanzania and turned toward camp.

Park rules required us to return before sunset.

On the drive back — as if the day hadn’t already delivered enough — we encountered another massive herd moving toward the river.

Like ants pouring down hillsides.

They would wait until morning.

Which meant tomorrow might be even bigger.

By the time drove into camp, the plains glowed in deep gold. Long shadows stretched across the grass. After the chaos of the river, the stillness felt almost surreal.

What a way to end the day.

One of those African sunsets that seem almost unreal — soft orange fading into pink, the silhouettes of acacia trees etched against the sky.

Back at Kimburu Camp, everything was quiet.

We opened a cold beer and sat for a while, replaying the morning in our minds. The noise. The dust. The moment that first wildebeest jumped.

Dinner followed under the canvas roof, just the two of us again, oil lamps flickering gently in the evening breeze.

We went to bed early.

Still smiling.

And quietly hoping that tomorrow might bring another crossing.

A day in the Maasai Mara

We woke up already smiling.

A quick breakfast and coffee, while the sun slowly rose from behind our tent. There was no hesitation this morning. We were ready for another spectacle.

We headed straight for the Mara River, crossed the bridge, and drove directly to the opposite bank of where yesterday’s herd had entered the water.

Yesterday we had stood almost within the chaos.

Today we wanted perspective.

A position slightly elevated, right on the riverbank, looking across to the Tanzanian side where the herds would gather before making their decision.

And they were already there.

Even from a distance, the size of the herd was obvious. This was no scattered group like the day before. This was a wall of wildebeest stretching far beyond what the eye could comfortably frame.

Thousands.

Dark bodies pressing together. Dust hanging in the morning light. The low murmur of constant movement carrying across the river.

What an unbelievable sight — the entire herd assembled on the opposite bank.

They moved back and forth along the edge, restless and indecisive. Clusters advanced, then retreated. The pressure from behind pushed the front rows dangerously close to the muddy slope.

Minutes stretched.

Then suddenly — without warning — the energy shifted.

A ripple ran through the mass.

The front line broke into a run.

And then they plunged.

What had been hesitation turned into unstoppable force. Wildebeest poured down the embankment, hooves scrambling, bodies colliding, dust exploding upward before being swallowed by the river.

They crossed directly in front of us.

The current churned violently as hundreds entered the water at once. Some swam. Some were carried sideways before correcting. Calves struggled to keep up. The noise was overwhelming again — grunts, splashing, the raw sound of survival.

And then they began climbing out.

Right below our vehicle.

Mud flying. Muscles straining. Exhausted bodies hauling themselves up the steep bank only meters away from us.

They paused for a drink, at a safe distance from the ever lurking crocodiles.

It was intimate. Immediate. Absolutely raw.

Within minutes they reorganized and began moving deeper into the Maasai Mara plains — an endless procession flowing away from the river.

From chaos to migration once more.

And we just sat there, watching the river settle again.

After the crossing, we followed the flow once more into the Maasai Mara plains.

The chaos of the river was already fading behind us. Out here, the herds were scattered and calm again, grazing peacefully on the fresh green grass as if nothing dramatic had happened an hour earlier.

It was almost disorienting.

Thousands of wildebeest spread across the savanna. Heads down. Tails flicking lazily. The tension of the crossing replaced by simple relief.

Then Chris suddenly slowed the vehicle.

No announcement. Just that subtle change in posture that told us he had seen something.

At first, we saw nothing but tall grass swaying in the wind.

And then — shapes.

Two cheetahs, almost invisible, crouched low in the grass.

They were perfectly positioned between the herd and a slight depression in the terrain. Patient. Focused. Every muscle aligned toward the wildebeest grazing less than a hundred meters away.

Unlike the lions of the previous day, these two were alert, focused, calculating.

We watched them for a long time.

They inched forward almost imperceptibly, disappearing and reappearing in the tall grass. Heads low. Ears flattened. Using every slight dip in the terrain as cover.

But this time, the herd was not unaware.

The nearest wildebeest had clearly spotted them.

Within minutes, what had been a loose scattering of grazers transformed into a tight defensive cluster. Heads up. Bodies pressed close together. Calves pulled inward. Every pair of eyes fixed on the same patch of grass.

Ready to run at the slightest attempt.

The tension was thick.

The cheetahs paused.

They studied the formation, perhaps calculating the odds. A tight group like this offered little opportunity. No isolated calf. No distracted individual drifting too far from safety.

Slowly, almost reluctantly, the two cats adjusted their approach.

They drifted sideways.

Then melted deeper into the tall grass, lowering themselves further until they were barely visible at all.

For a while we could track their movement by the subtle sway of grass tips. Then even that disappeared.

The plains returned to stillness — predator and prey locked in a silent stalemate.

If a hunt was going to happen, it would require patience. And with the sun already descending toward the horizon, the cheetahs seemed content to wait for better light and longer shadows.

And we couldn’t stay.

Reluctantly, we pulled away.

But Chris had one more surprise.

Through the quiet network of guides, he had heard about a leopard den nearby. The cubs, apparently, had shown themselves for the first time that very day.

The location was more or less on our route back to camp.

We didn’t need convincing.

With limited daylight left, we made our way there quickly, the sky already beginning to soften toward evening.

At first, nothing.

A rocky outcrop. A narrow crevice. Silence.

We waited. Minutes passed.

And then — movement inside the rocks.

A small head appeared.

A leopard cub emerged cautiously from the crevice and began to explore the rocks around the den. Clumsy. Curious. Playful in that unmistakable feline way.

After the intensity of the river crossings, this felt almost intimate.

Quiet joy.

We watched as long as the fading light allowed, knowing park rules would soon force us to head back.

Eventually, we had to rush.

The sun was nearly gone as we returned to camp — just in time.

Another extraordinary day.

Now there was no doubt.

We hadn’t come too early.

We had witnessed the Great Migration river crossings in their full, raw spectacle — twice!

And somehow, the Serengeti and Maasai Mara had still given us more.

Leaving the Serengeti, and Chris

Our final morning in the bush arrived far too quickly.

We had an early private flight out of the Mara, connecting through Arusha before continuing all the way back to Bali. It felt almost surreal that within a day we would trade endless savanna for tropical island life again.

But there was still one thing we wanted to do.

Before heading to the airstrip, we made a short detour to the leopard den.

Just one last look.

And we were lucky.

The mother was nowhere to be seen — likely out hunting — and the two cubs were already outside, playing near the edge of the rocky crevice that had sheltered them. Clumsy pounces. Tiny growls. Paws too big for their own coordination.

In the soft morning light, it felt like a gift.

A gentle goodbye from the Serengeti.

Eventually, though, time caught up with us.

We made our way to the small bush airstrip near the Mara River. The engine of the tiny plane was already running when we arrived. It all happened quickly — bags loaded, a few final photos, and then the moment we had quietly been avoiding.

Saying goodbye to Chris…

After days together in the bush — shared excitement, long silent scans of the horizon, that unforgettable first river crossing — it felt less like parting with a guide and more like saying goodbye to a friend.

Thanks Chris, you were absolutely awesome! We could not have wished for a better companion.

The propellers began to spin.

Soon the Serengeti stretched out below us as we lifted into the sky — winding river, scattered kopjes, migrating herds reduced to tiny dark threads against the green plains.

And just like that, it was over.

Our first safari in Africa.

A childhood dream fulfilled.

From Arusha we would fly on to Bali — but a part of us remained behind, somewhere along the Mara River.

Africa had delivered everything we had hoped for.

Final Thoughts

Looking back, our Tanzania safari was everything I had imagined for decades — and somehow more. From the Ngorongoro Crater to the plains of the Serengeti, from quiet mornings in remote camps to the thunder of wildebeest plunging into the Mara River, each day unfolded with a sense of privilege and wonder.

Witnessing the Great Migration river crossings was the dream. But it was the quiet in-between moments together — the oil lamps at Kimburu Camp, the cubs at the leopard den, the endless horizons at sunset — that made the journey unforgettable.

Africa had always been high on our bucket list. Now it had left its mark.

And this was only the beginning…

We will be back.

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Serengeti National Park – Seronera

Fri, 12 Jun 2020 00:24:53 +0000

Exploring the Wildlife Heart of the Central Serengeti

Day 7 & 8 of 12 – Tanzania Safari Trip

The Serengeti is one of the most iconic wildlife destinations in the world — a vast ecosystem of open plains, granite kopjes, scattered acacia trees and extraordinary predator density.

At its geographic and ecological center lies the Seronera region, often considered the beating heart of Serengeti National Park. Permanent water sources attract herbivores year-round, and where prey gathers, predators follow.

After leaving the Ngorongoro highlands behind, we entered the park at Seronera, curious whether reality could live up to the legend.

It did.

Entering Serengeti National Park at Seronera

We arrived at the Serengeti National Park gate just after noon.

At least two dozen safari vehicles were already lined up. So much for being alone. For the first time on this trip, it felt busy.

But we didn’t really mind.

We had been waiting for this moment. The Serengeti. The name alone carries weight.

At 1 pm sharp the gate opened and a small convoy of jeeps rolled into the park together. For a brief moment, it felt like a race — everyone eager to be first, hoping to be ahead of the others for whatever might appear.

A bit of a bummer.

Or so we thought.

Less than a kilometre inside the park, Chris calmly turned off the main gravel road onto a narrow two-spoor sand track. No other vehicles followed.

Within ten minutes, we couldn’t see a single car anymore.

And it stayed that way for the next four hours.

The Serengeti may be popular — but it is also vast. Very, very vast.

At that moment we knew we were in good hands. Chris wasn’t just a driver. He was an animal tracker, a reader of landscapes. He seemed to know where to go before anything had even happened.

And we would soon find out just how good he really was.

Seronera – When Everything Happens at Once

Less than an hour after entering the Serengeti, Chris slowed and pointed toward a large granite kopje rising from the plains.

A lion pride.

They were draped across the warm rock as if sculpted into it — young adults everywhere, limbs overlapping, tails flicking lazily in the heat. It was the Serengeti exactly as you imagine it: lions on a kopje, endless grasslands behind them, sky impossibly wide.

We edged closer.

At one point they were directly above us.

A large lioness rose slowly, locked eyes with us, and arched her back just slightly — enough to make herself look even more imposing. Not aggressive. Just a reminder.

We were in their territory.

Surprisingly, a few lions had chosen a different resting place altogether — stretched across the thick branches of nearby trees, perfectly balanced in the shade.

The Serengeti had welcomed us immediately.

Less than an hour later, we encountered another pride.

This time a male with two females, lazing in the grass right beside the road. When they lifted their heads and looked straight at us, the proximity felt almost unreal.

It quickly became obvious why predator density here is so high.

The surrounding savanna was full of prey — hartebeest, springbok, giraffe scattered across the plains. Life concentrated around water, and predators concentrated around life.

Barely half an hour after leaving the second pride, Chris suddenly became animated.

He pointed toward a distant termite mound.

“Cheetah.”

Before we fully processed it, he had done something guides technically aren’t supposed to do — he left the road and steered gently onto the savanna.

We didn’t ask.

Within minutes we were less than a dozen meters from two cheetahs — a mother and her nearly grown juvenile — resting atop the mound, using it as a natural lookout.

They scanned the grasslands methodically.

Built for speed. Built for calculation.

It felt outrageous that we were alone.

An hour later — as the light began turning golden — Chris stopped again.

Leopard.

A young individual draped elegantly in a tree, bathed in the soft glow of late afternoon. He groomed himself lazily, then paused to scan the horizon. Every movement deliberate. Every glance purposeful.

Chris whispered that if we were lucky, he might descend before sunset.

We waited.

And he was right.

The leopard flowed down the trunk with effortless grace, touched the ground, and disappeared into the tall grass — likely beginning his evening hunt.

We finally had to move on. Camp regulations meant arriving before dark.

But barely thirty minutes later, Chris braked again.

Another leopard.

High in an acacia tree, enjoying the last light of the day while surveying the plains. The golden glow around him felt almost staged — too perfect.

At that point we just looked at each other and laughed.

What was happening?

Then reality returned.

We still had to reach Ronjo Camp before sunset to avoid a fine.

Chris drove with calm urgency, the sky turning amber behind us, and we arrived just in time.

Two lion prides.
Cheetahs at close range.
Two separate leopards — one descending from a tree.

All within a single afternoon in Seronera.

Was this normal?

We had no idea.

But we were completely, utterly overwhelmed.

Why Seronera Is the Predator Capital of the Serengeti

The central Serengeti, known as the Seronera region, is widely regarded as one of the most wildlife-rich areas in East Africa.

Unlike the far southern plains, which depend heavily on seasonal rainfall, Seronera benefits from permanent water sources — most notably the Seronera River. Even in the dry season, water remains available. Where water persists, herbivores gather. And where prey gathers, predators follow.

The landscape itself also plays a role.

Open grasslands allow long-distance visibility for hunters like cheetahs. Scattered acacia trees provide shade and vantage points for leopards. Granite kopjes — those dramatic rock outcrops rising from the plains — offer lions both elevated lookouts and cool resting platforms during the heat of the day.

This combination of water, prey density, and varied terrain creates remarkably stable predator populations year-round.

While the Great Migration moves through the Serengeti in seasonal waves, Seronera remains productive regardless of timing. Even when the massive herds are elsewhere, resident wildlife ensures exceptional game viewing.

Perhaps that explains our afternoon.

Or perhaps we were simply lucky.

Ronjo Camp – An Unfenced Serengeti Experience

Ronjo Camp was small and intimate, set slightly away from the busier core of Seronera. Only half a dozen tents stood scattered across the grassland, blending almost invisibly into the surrounding savanna.

It was completely unfenced.

That was made very clear upon arrival.

Wildlife moved freely through the area — especially at night. Hyenas were common visitors, but lions and even leopards were known to pass through camp. The footprints in the dust around our tent were proof that this was not simply a dramatic introduction for effect.

After sunset, walking unescorted was not allowed. One of the Maasai staff would accompany guests between the tent and the dining area. All zippers and windows had to remain tightly closed.

And so we listened carefully.

As darkness settled over the central Serengeti, the sounds of the bush replaced the silence of daylight — distant hyena calls, rustling grass, the occasional deep rumble carried by the wind.

There is something different about sleeping unfenced in the Serengeti.

You are not observing nature.

You are inside it.

Only during dinner did the experience of our first afternoon in the Serengeti fully sink in.

We had barely spent five hours inside the park.

And yet:

Two lion prides.
A mother cheetah with young.
Two separate leopards.

Not just sightings — active sightings.

And the best part?

Until after the second leopard, we had not seen another vehicle.

Every single encounter had been ours alone.

Sitting there that evening, replaying it all in my head, I kept wondering:
Was this normal in the Serengeti? Was this simply what an afternoon here looks like?

I honestly have no idea.

But we were absolutely over the moon.

Spectacular doesn’t even begin to describe it.

A Full Day in Seronera – The Rhythm of the Central Serengeti

We spent our second full day in the Seronera area, the wildlife-rich heart of Serengeti National Park. While it’s one of the most accessible and visited regions of the park, the vast network of tracks meant it never felt crowded. Chris knew not only where to go — but when. More than once we noticed vehicles gathering in the distance while we quietly turned onto a smaller track, following instinct and experience rather than the obvious route.

Our first destination that morning was the Seronera River.

A large pod of hippos had claimed one of its deeper bends — easily more than a hundred animals compressed into muddy water. Massive grey backs surfaced and disappeared again. Calves stayed close to their mothers, occasionally scrambling onto the riverbank before sliding back into the safety of the group.

A few dominant bulls argued loudly in the shallows, jaws stretched wide in theatrical warnings. The noise echoed across the plains — grunts, splashes, sudden movement.

Permanent water is what makes Seronera so reliable year-round. Even when other areas dry out, this river sustains life — and life attracts everything else.

From there, we began a wide loop through the central Serengeti.

The plains felt expansive and alive. Herds of zebra moved in loose formation. Giraffes drifted between acacia trees. We had our first truly close encounter with elephants — enormous yet silent, crossing open ground with slow confidence.

Then lions appeared again.

A pride rested in the shade of a solitary tree, stretched out in complete indifference. Full bellies. Half-closed eyes. Not much movement — just the steady rhythm of predators conserving energy.

We moved on.

Soon after, another pride — perhaps a split from the first — gathered near a small creek. This group was far more active. One by one they approached the water to drink. Large males first. Then females. Then subadults and cubs weaving between them.

When they finished, they rose almost in unison and began walking toward a cluster of trees — directly past our vehicle.

For several quiet minutes, lions filled our entire field of view. Muscles rolling beneath their coats. Cubs stumbling slightly to keep up. Tails brushing the grass just meters away.

It is difficult to remain composed when that much power passes so close.

Right before reaching a designated picnic site for lunch, we encountered yet another pride — lazing beneath scattered trees.

By now we almost laughed.

Was this simply what a typical day in the central Serengeti looked like?

After lunch, we continued.

Not far from the picnic area, we came across a long line of elephants moving through tall grass — a slow procession cutting across the savanna. Calves walked protected in the middle, older females forming a loose perimeter.

Among them, giraffes moved with unhurried elegance.

It was one of those classic African savanna scenes — elephants and giraffes sharing open space beneath an endless sky. The kind of moment that feels almost staged, yet unfolds casually in front of you.

Further along, more giraffes appeared. More elephants.

And then another hippo pool.

This one was even busier than the morning’s river bend. Many hippos had hauled themselves out onto the muddy banks to graze, their massive bodies surprisingly agile as they shifted between land and water. Others remained half-submerged, only eyes and nostrils visible above the surface.

The abundance of wildlife in Seronera was becoming almost surreal.

Later in the afternoon, as the light softened, Chris slowed again.

There — sitting upright in the grass right beside the road — was a cheetah.

No termite mound this time. No elevation. Just a slender silhouette rising above golden stems. Head high. Eyes scanning. Completely poised.

We stopped only meters away.

It felt improbable — the sheer number of sightings we were having, yet so few other vehicles around us. Occasionally a distant jeep appeared on the horizon, but most of the time we were alone.

Was Chris simply choosing smaller tracks others ignored? Was it timing? Instinct?

Whatever the reason, the central Serengeti felt vast and personal — not crowded, not chaotic, but expansive.

As the sun began its slow descent, the savanna turned gold.

Acacias cast long shadows across the grass. Scattered herds moved in silhouette. The air cooled, and the rhythm of the day slowed once more.

We returned to Ronjo Camp just before dusk, once again grateful to arrive before park closing hours.

Another evening around the campfire.

Another Serengeti sunset.

Tomorrow, we would begin moving north.

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Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Mon, 08 Jun 2020 12:37:29 +0000

Ngorongoro Crater and the Highlands

Day 6 of 12 – Tanzania Safari Trip

We left Rhotia Valley Tented Lodge before dawn. The air in the Ngorongoro Highlands was unexpectedly cold, and mist clung to the slopes as we drove toward the entrance gate of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

The gate sits along the crater rim, less than half an hour away. We waited in near silence, engines idling in the thin morning air, watching light slowly build over the highlands.

Below us lay the Ngorongoro Crater.

From the rim, the basin appears both vast and enclosed — grassland, marsh and soda lake contained within steep volcanic walls. It feels less like open wilderness and more like a world held in suspension.

Formation of the Ngorongoro Crater

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Ngorongoro Crater formed two to three million years ago when a massive volcano erupted and collapsed inward, creating a vast caldera.

Today, the crater measures approximately 610 metres deep and covers around 260 square kilometres. The entire basin rests at roughly 1,800 metres above sea level.

The name “Ngorongoro” is believed to echo the sound of cowbells — ngoro ngoro — used by Maasai pastoralists who historically grazed cattle in the region. The conservation area remains a cultural landscape as much as a geological one.

Nearby, at Olduvai Gorge, fossil discoveries have revealed evidence of early hominid species dating back millions of years. Human presence in this region is ancient, layered deeply into the volcanic terrain.

Ngorongoro is not only a collapsed volcano. It is a landscape shaped by both tectonic force and human continuity.

Descent into the Caldera

Driving down into the crater feels almost unreal. The road curves tightly along the forested inner wall before opening suddenly onto open grassland.

And almost immediately — wildlife.

At the bottom of the descent, we were welcomed by a lone buffalo bull standing in beautiful golden morning light. Motionless. Heavy. Watchful.

The scale felt compressed. Animals were visible in every direction, yet always framed by the crater walls.

Wildlife on the Crater Floor

Soon after the buffalo, our first lion pride appeared.

They were spread across the grass, enjoying the early sun. Cubs tumbled over one another in play while the females remained alert, scanning the plains. After some time, the pride rose almost in unison and began moving with quiet purpose across the grassland.

We followed briefly. No prey was visible, and the lions moved without urgency. Eventually, we let them continue and drove on.

Then came one of the most significant sightings of the day — our first black rhino of the entire journey.

It lay partially submerged in a muddy pool in the middle of the savanna, blending almost seamlessly with a herd of wildebeest nearby. From a distance, it would have been easy to miss. Rhino sightings here are never guaranteed. This one felt rare and deliberate.

We continued along the edge of the central salt pan, where we encountered the crater’s localized seasonal wildebeest movement — a smaller echo of the great migration that unfolds across the wider Serengeti ecosystem.

Toward the marshlands, the landscape shifted again.

Wet swamps formed a stark contrast to the surrounding dry savanna. Here we found waterbuck, elephants, ostriches, and a large pod of hippos resting in shallow water. The air felt cooler near the marshes. Birdlife increased. Movement concentrated along the edges of green.

More buffalo appeared as the morning progressed, scattered across open grassland.

Shortly before beginning our ascent out of the crater on the opposite side, we encountered a small herd of eland — tall, calm, almost understated. A relatively rare sighting in this setting, and a quiet closing note to the drive.

A Contained Ecosystem

What makes Ngorongoro distinct is not simply the number of animals, but the enclosure.

Within a relatively small area, the crater contains multiple habitats — grassland, woodland, marsh and soda lake. Permanent water sources support year-round wildlife populations. Predators, grazers and scavengers exist in visible proximity.

Movement feels circular rather than migratory.

There is no distant horizon — only the steep walls rising on every side. The geology defines the rhythm. The boundaries shape behavior.

At times, the scene feels almost cinematic. Yet the sensation is rooted in volcanic history rather than spectacle.

Leaving the Crater

Climbing the steep forested road toward the rim, we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking the basin below.

From above, the crater floor appeared almost abstract — pale salt pan, green marshes, herds moving slowly across contained grassland.

Ngorongoro feels different from other landscapes in Tanzania. Not simply because of wildlife density, but because of its structure. It is a complete system, held within visible limits.

By early afternoon, clouds rolled across the rim as we continued westward toward Olduvai Gorge.

The crater disappeared behind us.

Ahead lay a landscape even older in story.

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Tarangire National Park

Sun, 07 Jun 2020 05:01:08 +0000

Arriving in Tanzania – The Journey to Tarangire National Park

Day 2 & 3 of 12 – Tanzania Safari Trip

We arrived in Arusha in the late afternoon, tired from the long journey from Bali but quietly aware that we had entered a different landscape altogether. At the small airport we were welcomed by Chris, our guide for the coming days. His calm presence felt reassuring — we were about to begin our Tanzania safari, and everything from here on would move at a different pace.

Because of our late arrival, we stayed overnight at a lodge near Arusha before heading into the bush. It turned out to be a welcome pause. The air felt cooler than expected, Mount Meru hidden somewhere beyond the clouds, and the city carried a gentle hum rather than urgency.

Early the next morning, we left Arusha for Tarangire National Park — our first real safari drive in Tanzania.

The Road to Tarangire

The drive from Arusha to Tarangire takes roughly two hours, gradually shifting from busy town edges to open countryside. Villages appeared and disappeared along the road. Maasai herders moved slowly with their cattle. Markets gathered dust in the morning light. Before even reaching the park, Tanzania had already begun to unfold in subtle, everyday scenes.

Tarangire National Park lies between the Masai Steppe to the southeast and the lakes of the Great Rift Valley to the north and west. It is named after the Tarangire River, the lifeline that crosses the park and becomes essential during the dry season, when wildlife concentrates along its banks.

The landscape felt immediately distinct — granite ridges, wide valleys, swamps and rolling woodland dotted with ancient baobab trees. Compared to the open plains many associate with a Tanzania safari, Tarangire feels more enclosed, more textural, almost layered.

After completing the entrance formalities, our safari truly began.

First Impressions in Tarangire National Park

Crossing the gate into Tarangire National Park felt like a quiet threshold moment.

Until then, Africa had been landscape. Culture. Anticipation.

Now it became wildlife.

And almost immediately, it became unmistakably Tarangire.

Scattered across the yellow-golden savanna stood the park’s most iconic feature — the giant baobab trees. Massive, ancient, almost surreal in appearance, their swollen trunks rising like natural monuments from the dry grasslands. Some looked as if they had been planted upside down, roots reaching into the sky. They stood solitary and proud in the open fields, casting long shadows in the late afternoon light.

It was our first encounter with these legendary African trees — and they felt timeless.

Within minutes, we saw our first herd of impala grazing peacefully between the baobabs. Elegant and alert, they lifted their heads in synchrony, ears twitching at every distant sound.

Not far beyond, a group of zebras stood knee-deep in a shallow pond, pulling at water hyacinth. Their black-and-white stripes shimmered in the reflected light, distorted by gentle ripples.

And then — elephants.

Our first herd appeared slowly through the dry savanna grass, walking in a long line toward us. Large females in front, calves partly hidden between them. Their immense bodies moved with surprising silence. Dust rose softly around their feet as they passed beneath the towering baobabs — a scene so archetypically African it almost felt staged.

Seeing elephants in a zoo is one thing. Watching them roam freely across open savanna, framed by ancient baobabs, is something entirely different.

We were still absorbing that encounter when Chris slowed again.

Lions.

A mating pair lay right beside the road. First afternoon. First lions. How lucky could we be? The male barely acknowledged us. The lioness flicked her tail lazily, golden eyes half closed in the warmth of the day.

Wildlife kept unfolding around us as we slowly made our way south toward Mawe Ninga Camp.

A lone jackal trotted along the roadside. Warthogs knelt awkwardly to graze. Waterbuck lingered near thicker vegetation. Giraffes moved gracefully between trees, their long necks silhouetted against the softening sky.

Above us, birds added flashes of color — hornbills hopping between branches, parrots darting overhead, hoopoes probing the dry soil. And then the unmistakable brilliance of a lilac-breasted roller, glowing in purple, turquoise and blue — perhaps Africa’s most photographed bird — perched perfectly in golden light.

By late afternoon the sun had dropped lower, casting long shadows beneath the baobabs. The entire landscape seemed to slow down.

There was no rush.

And yet there was movement everywhere — elephants emerging quietly from behind ridges, impala tightening their formations, giraffes drifting toward evening feeding spots.

Tarangire does not overwhelm you all at once.

It reveals itself gradually.

And for us, on that first afternoon, it marked the true beginning of our safari.

As sunset approached, we had to continue toward camp — vehicles must reach their lodges before dark — but the fading light only intensified the atmosphere.

The first safari day in Tanzania was ending with scale and silence. By the time we reached Mawe Ninga Camp, the light had softened into warm amber tones.

Mawe Ninga Camp – Our First Night in the Wild

The camp sits elevated on a rocky kopje in the southern part of Tarangire National Park, overlooking a wide valley and a seasonal lake below. From the entrance alone, the view stretched endlessly — yellow savanna fading into blue distance.

This was our first real safari lodge.

And it felt exactly as we had imagined — and yet better.

Our tent stood slightly apart from the others, built on a raised wooden platform. Canvas walls, proper beds, an open-air bathroom at the back. Simple, but beautiful. Comfortable, yet completely connected to the landscape.

From the small veranda we could look straight across the valley toward the lake. In the late afternoon light, animals appeared as small moving silhouettes below. The baobabs stood scattered across the plains like ancient guardians.

It was quiet.

Not city quiet — but African quiet. Wind in dry grass. Distant bird calls. The occasional low rumble from far away that made you wonder what exactly was moving out there.

As darkness settled, the atmosphere changed completely.

There are no fences around Mawe Ninga. No barriers separating you from the park. Once the sun sets, guests are escorted between tent and dining area — a reminder that this is not a theme park version of wilderness. This is real.

That first night in the tent felt both thrilling and strangely peaceful. Every sound seemed amplified — a branch snapping somewhere in the distance, rustling in the grass, something calling into the night.

You lie there listening.

Aware.

Excited.

Grateful.

It was the moment we truly understood that this safari was not just about sightings. It was about immersion.

Sleeping in a canvas tent, elevated above Tarangire’s vast valley, with wildlife moving unseen below — it felt like stepping into the Africa we had always imagined.

And this was only the beginning.

A Full Day in Tarangire – Wetlands, Predators and Endless Savanna

The following morning began early.

A full day in Tarangire National Park lay ahead.

We first drove down from Mawe Ninga’s rocky elevation into the wetlands of the valley below, toward the southern stretches of the Tarangire River. In the dry season, these marshes become magnets for wildlife — one of the reasons Tarangire is so renowned for its elephant concentrations.

The air felt cooler here, greener.

Herds gathered in natural patterns. Zebra and wildebeest grazed in open patches. Giraffes fed on fresh leaves in the river valley below, their long necks rising above the vegetation like periscopes scanning the horizon. Elephants moved in slow formation through damp grass.

Birdlife shifted constantly between water and woodland.

And then came the leopard.

It was still early when Chris stopped and pointed toward a tree. There, draped across a thick branch, lay a leopard with its kill secured high above the ground. The scene was almost silent. No chase. No drama. Just quiet dominance.

The carcass hung carefully positioned, safe from scavengers. The leopard rested, alert but composed, golden coat blending perfectly with bark and shadow.

It was one of those sightings you never assume will happen — and yet there we were, watching.

By now we were certain: we had an exceptional guide.

From the wetlands, we began a wide loop through increasingly drier terrain.

The landscape shifted almost subtly at first — lush green giving way to pale yellow grass, open plains replacing riverine vegetation. The transformation revealed another side of Tarangire.

Baobabs stood scattered across the golden savanna, monumental and solitary. Around them rose towering termite mounds — some several meters high — shaped like natural mud pillars rising from the earth. The scale of everything felt amplified.

Further along, a large herd of Cape buffalo gathered at a pool to drink. Heavy, muscular bodies pressed close together, curved horns forming a defensive wall of bone and mass. Often called one of Africa’s most dangerous animals, they radiated quiet intensity. Even from the vehicle, their presence felt different — less graceful than antelope, less predictable than elephants.

We kept a respectful distance.

Zebras drank cautiously at another waterhole, lifting their heads in synchrony between sips. Nearby, elephants moved steadily across the savanna once more — Tarangire’s constant companions.

Giraffes lingered in greener pockets of the valley.

Birds added flashes of color and character: ground hornbills striding with prehistoric seriousness, and bright bee-eaters perched delicately before launching into swift aerial arcs.

The day unfolded without urgency but never without interest.

By late afternoon we began looping back toward camp.

The light turned warmer, shadows lengthened beneath baobabs, and the dry grass glowed almost bronze.

Then, not far from Mawe Ninga, the road simply stopped.

A herd of buffalo had taken possession of it.

There was no dramatic standoff — just an unspoken understanding that we would wait. The animals moved slowly, deliberately, occasionally glancing toward us but never hurried. We were on their schedule now.

For a moment we wondered if we might actually arrive late to camp.

Eventually, the herd shifted aside just enough to allow passage, and we continued upward toward our tent.

We arrived in time.

From the terrace, overlooking the valley and distant lake, we watched another Tarangire sunset dissolve into soft gold and grey-blue.

Two full days in the park, and already it felt expansive, varied, and quietly powerful.

Tarangire does not shout.

It unfolds.

Final Morning in Tarangire

We left Mawe Ninga Camp just after sunrise, driving slowly for a final game drive before exiting the park.

There was no urgency. Just a quiet desire to absorb a few last impressions.

Not far from camp, we encountered another herd of elephants — this time directly on the road. Large females and smaller calves moved calmly across our path, completely unbothered by our presence. We switched off the engine and waited.

Dust rose softly around their feet. One young elephant lingered slightly behind, hesitating before hurrying to rejoin the group.

It felt like a fitting farewell.

As we continued toward the park gate, the landscape already seemed familiar — baobabs standing steady in the morning light, dry grass glowing pale gold.

Our final sighting before leaving Tarangire was a group of vultures gathered around a wildebeest carcass.

There was no chaos. No dramatic tension. Just efficiency. Heads dipping, wings occasionally spreading to assert space. Nature completing its cycle.

It was not glamorous.

But it was real.

And somehow, it felt like an honest ending.

Tarangire and the Rhythm of the Dry Season

Tarangire National Park is particularly known for its dry season wildlife concentrations.

As surrounding areas grow increasingly arid, animals migrate toward the Tarangire River. Water becomes the organizing principle. Elephants in particular gather here in remarkable numbers — the park holds one of the largest elephant populations in northern Tanzania.

During our stay, we saw herds daily.

Wildebeest and zebra were abundant. Lions appeared with growing familiarity. Buffalo moved in heavy formations. Birds shifted between wetland and woodland.

But what stood out most was not a single sighting — it was the sense of rhythm.

Wildlife following water.
Following ancient patterns.
Following something far older than tourism.

Tarangire felt less crowded than some of the other northern Tanzania parks. More intimate in scale, yet expansive in atmosphere. It did not overwhelm with spectacle — it unfolded gradually.

Reflections on Our First Days in the African Wilderness

Looking back, Tarangire felt like an initiation.

It was our first true immersion in the African wilderness. Our first nights in a safari tent. Our first elephants passing close enough to hear them breathe. Our first lions, our first leopard in a tree.

Yes, the leopard with its kill will always remain a highlight.

But equally memorable were the quieter moments — elephants in long formation across dry grass, the graphic silhouettes of baobabs against golden skies, dust hanging weightless in late afternoon light.

Tarangire was not defined by drama.

It was defined by atmosphere.

It set the rhythm for everything that followed — slow observation, respect for scale, and an understanding that landscape shapes wildlife just as much as instinct does.

When we finally exited the park and turned toward Lake Eyasi, it felt like we were leaving something foundational behind.

Tarangire had quietly defined the tone of our safari.

And this was only the beginning.

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Moremi Game Reserve

Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:49:02 +0000

The Okavango Delta Core

Day 22 until 25 of 27 – Namibia & Botswana Safari Trip

Moremi Game Reserve occupies the eastern and central portions of the Okavango Delta, one of the world’s largest inland delta systems. Unlike river systems that flow to the sea, the Okavango disperses into the Kalahari Basin, creating a dynamic network of permanent channels, seasonal floodplains and islands.

Established in 1963, Moremi was one of the first protected areas in Africa to be declared by local residents concerned about wildlife depletion. Today, it forms a critical conservation zone within Botswana’s broader northern wilderness region.

The reserve encompasses a range of habitats, including papyrus-lined waterways, open grassland, acacia woodland and mopane forest. This ecological variation supports high densities of herbivores such as elephant, buffalo and lechwe, as well as predators including lion, leopard, spotted hyena and African wild dog.

Seasonal flooding from the Angolan highlands shapes wildlife movement patterns, concentrating animals along elevated islands and receding floodplains during different times of year. As part of the greater Okavango ecosystem, Moremi functions as both a refuge and a movement corridor within northern Botswana’s conservation landscape.

Entering Moremi from Khwai

Day 22: Khwai – Moremi Game Reserve (North Gate Campsite)

We checked-in at North Gate and picked a camping place nearest to the river, where a couple of hippos did not seem to mind our presence. We then drove up northeast through the flood plains, into an area which is not visited much, judging from the roads.

We were back in camp on time for another spectacular sunset. In the evening we had a couple of elephants walk straight through camp, passing within meters of our camp fire. A great experience.

North Gate bridge seen from our camping spot, with hippos to the right, just outside this photo.

Day 23: Moremi Game Reserve (South Gate Campsite)

Today’s plan was to game drive to South Gate, via Xakanaxa and possibly Third Bridge, and to explore the Okavango by boat. And hoping to find wild dogs along the way… We had not made any advanced arrangements for a boat, but I had read that it should be possible to charter a boat direct at the Xakanaxa Boat Station; this turned out to be correct.

And finally… Wild dogs! Probably a fews scouts rather than a whole pack. We saw 3 but they were gone into the bush within half a minute…

We waited for half an hour and, as we had hoped, one came back and walked right passed our car. I was too busy enjoying and almost forgot to click…

The dogs didn’t stay around very long, but we were thrilled with this first encounter! And we now knew we were in the right area, feeling confident to see more of them.

We had a picnic break near Xakanaxa, at Paradise Pools. A magical spot indeed.

Time for some boating and finally see the Okavango Delta from where you should see it, the water!

After our Okavango boat trip we had to drive straight to South Gate, as we were running low on fuel. We therefore decided that I would drop Stan and Dio at South Gate to prepare dinner, and I’d drive to Maun to get fuel and then come back asap. It was not possible to be back before dark and the gate would close, so I informed the lady at the gate. She was very kind and told me she’d leave the gate open, just for me! And she did…!

South Gate was a nice camp, well-looked after and clean. Much better than North Gate and although it is located right next to the gate and the border of Moremi it is absolutely still completely in the bush and wildlife is as abundant as anywhere else and there are no human settlements within probably 30 kilometres.

Day 24: Moremi Game Reserve (South Gate Campsite)

Our last full day in the bush, and although we had a glimpse of wild dogs, we were not satisfied with that and decided that in the morning we would visit Black Pools and Xini Lagoon, where lions and wild dogs are often seen, and then in the afternoon go to Third Bridge and Xakanaxa, to search for wild dogs.

The buffaloes were quite alert, which was really great to see. The largest individuals were clearly taking a front row position in between us and the rest of the herd. Very different from the buffaloes we saw near the Chobe River.

Black Pools was really beautiful. We saw only 1 other car, and only once. Xini Lagoon was surprisingly busy with cars from Maun as well as nearby lodges. It was very dry though and I didn’t really understand why they all went to Xini Lagoon and not Black Pools… We certainly didn’t mind!

We then drove to Third Bridge, enjoying some water birds and crocodiles fishing.

The network of small tracks to the west of the main road between Xakanaxa and Third Bridge are often described as the most rewarding for game, and also as very beautiful. Both are true!

We only had a few hours left, so I bet on the area that I thought had the highest chance of wild dog sightings: the area around the Xakanaxa airstrip, where the Mula pack often hangs out.

It was clear that we were not the only ones around and that this is probably the most visited area in Moremi, or in fact the entire area between Maun and Kasane. It soon became obvious why, when we ended up in a queue of a couple of cars, for apparently a leopard. We had 1 more car in front of us, when all of a sudden another jeep passed us with fairly high speed, whispering “dogs”. A few other cars were apparently not sure to go for the dogs or the leopard, but we didn’t have to think twice… We followed the lodge car ahead of others, which gave us instantly an excellent position when less than hundred meters further we saw the dog pack on the road…!

More and more dogs came suddenly from different directions, as if the meeting point was right in front of us. And off they went, in a rush…!

They were clearly on a hunt. The next half hour or so was quite crazy and tested my driving skills, with initially about 10 cars trying to follow the dogs. Half were self-drivers, half from lodges. In that area the network of roads is very extensive, so it’s not easy to decide which road to take. I had anticipated a little (actually a lot….!) for these kind of events, and read a lot of trip reports. From the reports I had memorised which of the lodges seemed to have the most senior guides, and decided to keep an eye on these lodges’ cars, and if I had no idea which way to drive myself, just follow them. That plan worked out perfectly and soon we were with only 1 other car from a lodge following the pack, leaving all other cars behind, most likely lost on the network of roads.

The lodge car went off-road; we followed… The dogs stopped, and so did we. Another car from the same lodge joined and obviously the first car had radioed its position. We greeted both guides and their guests and it was clear they didn’t mind at all sharing the sighting with us, as self-drivers. I gestured if it was ok to drive there, off-road, and he only smiled.

I really appreciated these guides, and every time the dogs made a move we followed, sometimes we drove first and sometimes the cars of the lodge drove first, it was no longer a race, it was just about being polite and share the moment all together, as it should be.

The lodge cars had to go, I guess for some pre-planned sundowners. We followed the pack for as long as we could, but eventually they disappeared behind the staff quarters of the Xakanaxa camp.

What a thrilling and rewarding end of our last full day on safari! Now there was a big “Check” for Wild Dogs. The photos of the dogs are not great and some are taken with 1 hand, while my other hand had to steer, but that’s a good reason to come back…!

Day 25: Moremi Game Reserve – Ghanzi (Thakadu Bush Camp)

The original plan was to do one more half-day game drive before leaving Moremi, but as we were still ecstatic about yesterday’s afternoon and our overall time in the bush we decided to take it easy and spend some time in the camp. We had not done that before yet, as every day for the last 24 days we were in the car way before sunrise..!

We then drove slowly towards Maun, enjoying our last wildlife along the road leading out of the park. Our destination for today was Ganzi, on the way back towards Windhoek in Namibia.

One more coffee in the bush. And Dio with the spade, going to a dig-yourself toilet. He walked off into the bushes 20 meters away, until we heard some noise we didn’t really know from where or what… Oh well, then better dig a hole on the other side… All good.

We then drove to Ganzi, where we spent the night at Thakadu Bush Camp; a great little camp, surrounded by nature. Our last night in the bush…

Day 26: Ghanzi – Windhoek

Today we drove from Ghanzi back to Namibia and Windhoek, for our last night in Afrika, having plenty of time to reflect back on our trip and so many unforgettable memories that I’m not even trying to think about what I liked most; what a fantastic trip it was and how beautiful Namibia and Botswana are. We’ll be back, sooner than later!

More trip reports from Namibia

So, I’ve been back to Namibia a lot sooner than I though…! I simply couldn’t resist. Check out our Namibia trip report from October 2019 and Namibia & South Africa trip report from July 2024!

Coming July & August I will spend again a month self-driving through Namibia and Botswana, visiting all my favorite destinations. Trip Report will follow around September!

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Khwai Community Concession

Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:48:04 +0000

The Khwai River Ecosystem

Day 20, 21 & 22 of 27 – Namibia & Botswana Safari Trip

The Khwai Community Concession lies along the northeastern boundary of Moremi Game Reserve, forming part of the greater Okavango Delta ecosystem. Unlike the strictly protected areas within Moremi, Khwai is managed by the local community, allowing a combination of conservation, tourism and controlled land use.

The Khwai River provides a permanent water source that supports high wildlife densities, particularly during the dry season. Floodplains, riverine woodland and mopane forest create a diverse habitat that attracts elephant, buffalo, giraffe and a range of antelope species.

Predators are regularly encountered in the area. Lion and spotted hyena move between Moremi and Khwai, while the wooded riverbanks provide favourable habitat for leopard. The concession’s management structure also allows off-road driving in designated areas, contributing to its reputation as a productive wildlife region.

As part of the broader Okavango system, Khwai plays a transitional role between the inland delta channels and the drier woodland environments to the east.

Entering the Khwai Concession

Day 20: Savuti – Khwai (Magotho Camp)

We arrived at Magotho Camp late afternoon and enjoyed setting up camp in the middle of the bush, completely self-supporting and without any supporting facilities from the camp. It was one of our favourite camp sites.

We truly enjoyed the rest of the evening around the camp fire, under a spectacular night sky and surrounded by the sounds of nature, with highlights some rumbling hippos and occasional roaring lions in the distance. Most excitement came from a curious hyena though, who repeatedly sneaked up behind us, to within only a couple of meters, probably trying to find some left over from our braai.

Day 21: Khwai (Magotho Camp)

Today we particularly looked for wild dogs, west of our campsite, following some leads from a ranger. Wild dogs were really the only animals left on our wish-list. In fact, they were on top of our wish-list for this entire trip and I had carefully planned the last few days of our trip through Khwai and Moremi to have the best possible chance to see them.

So no wild dogs this morning, but we were quite satisfied with the hippos. After lunch we decided to explore the area east of our camp. Our game drive through this area turned out into one of my favourite drives of our entire trip; the flood plains of the Khwai river make for a spectacular landscape and attract a lot of elephants. I mean, really a lot of elephants..! One after the other mostly breeding herds of elephants came to the river to drink, as if they had to queue somewhere in the bush. Really unbelievable; we spend a few hours just sitting in our car, watching this spectacular scene. I do not exaggerate if I say that in 2 hours we saw a few hundred elephants, with some herds of up to 50 animals.

An amazing morning! We drove back to camp for lunch and a little siesta.

In the afternoon we went again on a game drive, knowing that in this area night-drives are allowed. At night we saw plenty of grazing hippo, some wild cats, a honey badger and plenty of elephants, which were a little more intimidating during the night compared with during the day, even more so knowing that they don’t really like to be disturbed with lights at night, so we kept the use of our spotlights to a minimum and just enjoyed the atmosphere rather than trying to take any photos.

The sun had hardly disappeared behind the horizon and the sky was already filled with stars and the Milky Way.

Day 22: Khwai – Moremi Game Reserve (North Gate Campsite)

Early morning we looked again for wild dogs, but without any luck. We decided to make a move to our next destination North Gate, from where we wanted to explore the other side of the Khwai river.

After our river crossing the landscape changed into mixed mopane woodlands and relative wet marshland, beautiful! It looked ideal for wild dog and leopard and indeed not much later Dio spotted something running through the bush on the right of the car; I also just managed a glimpse, of what we were eventually very sure was a wild dog. We drove around over the fairly extensive network of small roads in that area, but did not find dogs… But we found this beautiful leopard, who was clearly on a hunt!

We crossed the bridge and left Khwai behind, entering our next destination, in our quest to find African wild dogs…

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Savuti – Chobe National Park

Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:47:07 +0000

The Savuti Marsh Ecosystem

Day 18, 19 & 20 of 27 – Namibia & Botswana Safari Trip

Savuti forms part of the western sector of Chobe National Park in northern Botswana. The region is centred around the Savuti Marsh, a dynamic landscape historically shaped by the erratic flow of the Savuti Channel, which connects to the Linyanti system.

Unlike the permanent riverfront of Chobe near Kasane, Savuti is defined by seasonal water patterns, open grassland, and surrounding mopane woodland. Periodic flooding and prolonged dry phases have created a mosaic of habitats that support high densities of elephant, buffalo and plains game.

Savuti is particularly known for its predator activity. Lion, spotted hyena and leopard operate across the marsh and woodland edges, with long-documented interactions that have made the region one of Botswana’s most studied wildlife areas.

The absence of permanent riverfront crowds gives Savuti a more remote and interior character within the broader Chobe ecosystem.

Day 18: Kasane – Savuti, Chobe National Park

We did an early morning game drive into the Chobe National Park. As soon as we arrived at the river front it became clear why they like to reduce the number of safari vehicles in that area. The sun had just come up when suddenly all jeeps were racing to the same spot; we followed, and it turned out a young leopard was sitting hidden in the bush. With at least 30 jeeps trying to get into a very small area to have a look. There was no ethics, no rules, a free-for-all and the most aggressive drivers I’ve ever seen.

This was not for us, so we quickly left… To only come across another traffic jam of jeeps surrounding a few lions.

No, this part of the Chobe National Park definitely needs some better management. The park is large enough and other areas certainly have enough wildlife as well.

On our way out of this side of the park we came across a nice herd of buffaloes, followed by some vultures on a wildebeest carcass; perhaps less interesting for most visitors, as here we were the only car…

Happily leaving the park we were on our way for our highly anticipated 8 days off-road trip to Maun, first via the tar road to Kachikau, but from there on off-road. A quick lunch before entering the bush.

We soon entered Botswana’s real wilderness, driving through the infamous thick sand to the area called SAVUTI and our highly anticipated wilderness campsite.

We arrived in Savuti around noon. We checked in to our campsite and had lunch at our beautiful camp site, under the watchful eyes of a couple of Yellow and Red-Billed Hornbills and mongoose.

One of the rangers told us he had seen some lions near some of the waterholes north of camp. That was perfect, as that area was my plan anyway to check out this afternoon and I had already planned a GPS route along most of the waterholes for our afternoon game drive.

So we systematically checked-out one after the other waterhole and it didn’t take too much time until we found the lions, a mating couple.

It turned out the mating couple was not alone and about 50 meters away we found 3 young males laying in the grass.

They must have lost the fight for the rights to mate with the female and every time the couple mated they could do nothing else but watch, which gave us some great photo opportunities.

And every time the couple was mating they stood up and stared frustrated towards the love birds. So I anticipated this for some of the following photos, some of my favourites.

What else could we have hoped for, on our first day in Savuti..?! We decided to drive to the south of camp and check out Gobatsaa Hill, better known as Leopard Rock and now famous through a National Geographic documentary about the Leopards living there.

We did not find any leopards, but at least we had a better idea of this area and where to go the next day. Completely satisfied we settled into our camp, which was completely unfenced and wildlife was free to move in and out of the camp… It doesn’t get much more exciting than this!

Day 19: Savuti, Chobe National Park

Today a full day game driving through the Savuti area. What an incredibly beautiful area, and such a diverse landscape, from lightly forested areas with natural little waterholes to rocky outcrops, (dry) river beds and extensive savanna.

How is this for a coffee break..! And we hadn’t seen a single other car yet, this morning.

We drove through extensive savanna and really had a blast. We saw hardly any other cars anywhere in the Savuti area, so when half way the morning we noticed a couple of cars in the distance we knew there must be something to see. We decided to check it out and indeed another safari vehicle confirmed there was a lion kill.

Wow, that was cool, lions on a wildebeest kill, up close. Time for coffee.

We slowly made our way back to our camp site for a lunch break. It was Stan’s birthday, so that had to be celebrated in some style!

After lunch we couldn’t wait to get back into our car, to explore the area around Leopard Rock and hopefully find a leopard… Probably easier said than done, but we know patience often pays off.

We moved to the opposite side of the open area, as that was the direction the leopard went. We soon found a herd of impala, and positioned ourselves on the other side. And waited, and waited, and waited… The sun was setting, we soon had to go back.

A car came towards us, on their way back to camp. They told us another car had seen a leopard cross a road, about a kilometre from where we were, walking more or less parallel to the road to the west. I thought to know where that was, more or less, from my previous studies of the maps… So we decided to give up on this leopard and go look for that other one…

We drove a few kilometres, into thicker and thicker sand and bush, it was almost impossible to continue. One other car had decided to do the same, but decided to turn around and go back; it was now really getting dark and passed the time we had to be back. There was no gate though at Savuti, so we thought it would be ok to be a little bit late…

And then, all of a sudden, there he was, sitting exactly as on this first photo, less than 10 meters away in an opening in what was generally very thick bush. Really as if he was waiting to be found, as final trophy for patience, and another birthday present for Stan.

He was on to something… All of a sudden he stood up, walked to a tree 5 meters away and started to frantically dig with his claws, pulling away bark and ripping open the tree. Suddenly he dug in…

A sudden squeak and he got something…! He disappeared into the bush. What was it..? We turned the car and waited; a minute later he crossed the road right in front of us, prey in his mouth. I’m still not sure what it was exactly, but I believe a mongoose or squirrel that was hiding in the tree.

He gave us one more look, as if saying “Did you see that? That’s how I hunt!”

“Thank you!” Now THAT was something to remember… Our patience and perseverance certainly paid off!

We drove back to our camp, it was now completely dark. To our surprise, The day had one more surprise for us: all of a sudden it started to rain…! In the middle of the dry season…!? It wasn’t much and lasted only 10 minutes or so and it was the only rain we’ve had during our time in Botswana.

Day 20: Savuti – Khwai (Magotho Camp)

We spend the morning again game driving through the Savuti marsh area, before heading to our next destination, the Khwai area, for our most anticipated real bush camping.

We took the marsh road to Khwai, as that sounded to be the most beautiful and wildlife-rich route. We did not regret!

All of a sudden we had 2 male lions literally next to the road, within 5 meters from our car! It became obvious that they apparently had been in a fight and were licking their wounds.

Eventually the lions stood up and walked into thick dry grass. It was time for us to continue our journey to Khwai. Or so we thought…

What happened next is hard to believe. But I have proof…!

We had parked a little off the road, to anticipate any other cars passing by. There were a couple of holes in the dried-up soil and I had to carefully back up first to be able to get on the road again. Stan sat next to me, and wanted to look out of the window to help me avoid the holes. He looked down and immediately screamed and jumped up, almost hitting the car’s ceiling. “Snake”…!!! Really as if he had stared death in the face…!

It was actually quite hilarious and both Dio and myself had to laugh. We have a few other friends who are not great fans of snakes and have a similar panic reaction, even by just saying the word “snake”. I couldn’t see anything from behind the steer. Dio sat in the back, and took a look. He’s completely cool with snakes, even big snakes. “Aaaaaarrgggghhhhh….!!!! BLACK MAMBA !!!” and also Dio almost hit the ceiling…! “SHIT”, I thought… (actually I thought something else, but I’ll keep it decent). My survival instinct took over and I immediately closed the electric windows. Dio knows his snakes, so if he says Black Mamba then I know it’s a Black Mamba. “How big…?” “Huge..!” Stan had himself still hardly under control and stuttered “he came this high”, pointing with his hand to a level as high as the window. OK, windows are closed, nobody got bitten and Dio saw the snake slide towards the tree just behind us, the tree that the lions had used as shade. I turned the car so I could see the tree, took my camera and opened the window. The mamba must have gone into that tree. And yes he did. I was just in time to take 2 photos, before it disappeared higher up in the tree.

Without exaggeration, I estimated the black mamba to be at least 4 meters long, and almost as thick as my wrist (and I’m a fairly big guy). I’m not sure if the mamba and lions had anything to do with each other. I believe the mamba happened to be somewhere right behind our wheels and I might have touched it while driving in reverse. That may have triggered the snake’s reaction, raising up his head to at least a meter high and indeed staring straight into Stan’s face!

Phew…… It took another 10 minutes before we were all ourselves again.

And so we continued our journey, to the border of the park.

That was Chobe National Park, an absolutely spectacular wilderness with fantastic lion and leopard sightings!

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Chobe National Park

Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:46:19 +0000

The Chobe River Ecosystem

Day 16, 17 & 18 of 27 – Namibia & Botswana Safari Trip

Located in northern Botswana near the borders of Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia, Chobe National Park forms part of one of southern Africa’s most interconnected wildlife regions. The park is best known for its substantial elephant population and the Chobe River, a permanent water source that sustains large concentrations of wildlife, particularly during the dry season.

The riverfront area near Kasane supports dense gatherings of buffalo, hippo and antelope species, attracting predators that move along the floodplains and woodland edges. Further inland, landscapes transition into mopane woodland and seasonal pans, creating ecological variation within the broader park.

Chobe’s position within the Kavango–Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) allows wildlife to move across international boundaries, reinforcing its importance as a regional migration corridor.

From Namibia to Kasane in Botswana

Day 16: Kongola – Chobe National Park – Kasane

We arrived at Chobe National Park’s Ngoma Gate at lunch time and after a quick bite we did a game drive along the Chobe river, before continuing to Kasane.

African Fish Eagle

In Kasane we had pre-booked a private sunset river cruise on the Chobe river, which turned out fantastic value and with probably one of the best guides on the river. It was immediately clear that he was very senior and extremely knowledgeable and often other guides would keep an eye on us and our sightings. He also had a clear own itinerary and route, ignoring all other boats who seemed to like herding around the same sightings.

Pied Kingfisher

African Darter

Egyptian Geese

Chobe National Park in Botswana

We camped at the Big 5 Chobe Lodge, on the shore of the Chobe River; it was the least attractive camping site of our entire trip, but we knew that in advance. My preferred camping was fully booked a year in advance…

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Baluran National Park – East Java

Sun, 29 Mar 2020 09:15:05 +0000

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Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park – East Java

Sun, 29 Mar 2020 04:45:39 +0000

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Komodo National Park – West Flores

Mon, 23 Mar 2020 12:38:58 +0000

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Serengeti Mara

Sun, 22 Mar 2020 08:57:14 +0000

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Serengeti National Park – Seronera

Sun, 22 Mar 2020 08:54:25 +0000

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Olduvai Gorge

Sun, 22 Mar 2020 08:35:00 +0000

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Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Sun, 22 Mar 2020 08:29:49 +0000

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Tarangire National Park

Sat, 21 Mar 2020 13:10:54 +0000

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Etosha National Park

Mon, 02 Mar 2020 13:57:06 +0000

Day 11 until 17 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

A visit to Namibia is not complete without spending a few days in Etosha. A year earlier I had spent a week in the park, and this time we would do the same, staying in all 3 major camps, starting with Olifantsrus, then Okaukuejo and finally my favorite camp, Halali.

Day 11: Palmwag Concession – Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha National Park

On our way to Etosha, via the Grootberg pass and Kamanjab. We didn’t have any reservations, as the park was long fully booked. The plan was to either camp in the wild somewhere near the Galton Gate, the park’s western entrance, or try to get an overflow place at Olifantsrus Camp, about 2 hours passed the Galton Gate.

At one of my favourite waterholes, Jakkalswater, where elephants never disappoint.

We arrived early afternoon at Olifantsrus Campsite, without reservation. Fortunately there was still place on the overflow places.

Day 12: Olifantsrus Camp – Okaukuejo Camp

The day before the lady at Olifantsrus was so kind to check if she could book us a place at Okaukuejo, which was supposedly fully booked. She couldn’t get through via phone and eventually forced a booking through the online system. We were really thankful, as we really wanted to spend the nights at the waterholes.

Our first lions in the park, just next to the road on our way to Okaukuejo.

At Okaukuejo we made sure all was ok for our 2 nights there, and off we went to check out the nearby waterholes.

Always a favourite, the honeybadger!

At Olifantsbad there was a dead rhino and a male lion deep in the bush. We had been waiting for the lion to make a move, but that didn’t seem to happen any time soon. So we decided to make a move back to Gemsbokvlakte, one of my favourite waterholes. Last year we saw a lion with 3 cubs and 5 bat-eared foxes, all at the same time.

A black rhino and the best daytime sighting I’ve had. It turned out that many more were to come…

And then this white rhino showed up… Black and white, both at the same waterhole! This one had its horns cut short, and was wearing a tracking collar on its leg.

A nice sunset at the Okaukuejo waterhole, but no animals… A bit disappointing. At night a few black rhino visited the waterhole, but all together it was a very quiet night… Hopefully our second night would be more rewarding.

Day 13: Okaukuejo

Today we decided to first check out the waterholes to the west and then slowly move to the waterholes east of Okaukuejo.

The first rain had arrived and the park was full with puddles of water. The animals clearly enjoyed this.

We had more luck this night, and plenty of black rhino came for a drink, even a few mothers with babies. At some stage there were 9 rhinos in and around the waterhole, truly spectacular!

Day 14: Okaukuejo Camp – Halali Camp

Today we were moving to the Halali Campsite, my clear favourite in Etosha. Not only because of its waterhole, located a bit away from the actual camp, but also because of the area itself, which is quite diverse in scenery as well as wildlife, compared with the area around Okaukuejo. It was also nearest to the area where last year we found cheetah, which was now again on top of our wish list…

A good start of the day!

This spotted hyena was following the male lion, at a safe distance…

And half an hour after we left the male lion we were surprised by this female, followed by 2 large cubs, and coming direct at us, crossing in front of the car just a meter away, just awesome!

We ended up spending probably almost an hour with this beautiful rhino, quietly following him from behind, down-wind. Eventually we had to rush back, to not miss the closing time of the gate at Halali.

The evening passed by quietly and we decided to relax a bit at our campsite, only spending a little time at the waterhole.

Day 15: Halali

Today we had one target on top of our wish list: cheetah. And I thought to know exactly where to go look for them…

This ostrich complete ignored us and walked along with us for at least a hundred meters, less than a meter away from our car.

Lions at Okerfontein, another favourite waterhole of mine.

I didn’t mention anything about the heat… After all, it was mid October.. Well, we managed a lot better than some of the animals. Most trees had lost their leaves, so even finding shadow wasn’t always easy…

Back at Halali Campsite, as usual just in time at the gate, at sunset. No cheetahs today… Tomorrow was our last full day in Etosha. It reminded me about last year, when we finally found 3 cheetahs on our last day in Etosha. Would we again be that lucky…?

An awesome first night at the Halali waterhole.

And this is how our second day at Halali ended, we couldn’t have wished better. The sheer diversity in scenery and wildlife makes Etosha really a must-visit destination.

Day 16: Halali

Today was our last full day in Etosha and we had only 1 target on our mind: cheetah. I was convinced that the day before we simply didn’t find cheetah because of the lions hanging out in their area. As the lions had moved on a bit was hopeful we had more luck today.

Not a bad start, 3 white rhinos..!

Yes, we thought this huge bull elephant had died… But it fortunately turned out he was just having a nap.

We had been driving back and forth along the same road for a couple of times now… And then, all of a sudden… Yes, Cheetah! And best of all, a mother with 3 adorable kittens.

Mother cheetah was continuously scanning the horizon, as the lions of the day before couldn’t be far away.

It was getting increasingly hot and mother cheetah did her best to provide a little more shadow for her kittens. I knew one thing for sure, that she was not going to stay here and had to make a move soon. So we moved our car towards the nearest area with some shadow, knowing that she’d head that direction.

Not all cheetah kittens are equal… And not all survive. This one was clearly ahead of the other two.

We had spend about an hour with these cheetahs, when they finally disappeared into the bush… Again, what an awesome experience and how satisfied I was that we found them, on our last full day in Etosha. Cheetahs: check!

Look at those legs… Why is it that elephants sometimes copy each others position..?

We had just enough time to check out Naumses waterhole. When we arrived the sun was almost gone, and not an animal in sight. Then all of a sudden this lone female came over the ridge and made for an awesome end of the day.

Our last night in Etosha, at the Halali waterhole. And what a night it turned out to be! These 2 mothers were introducing their calfs to each other, look at how little the one on the left is! Rhinos have to entirely follow their senses of smell and hearing and it was very obvious a tense moment, whit a lot of grunts, back and forward moving and even some wild charges at each other. It all ended up peacefully.

Day 17: Halali – Windhoek

Today was our last day and we had to go back to Windhoek. We had a couple of hours in the early morning and decided to go look for lions, one more time… We had seen a few lions earlier around Salvadora waterhole, so that’s where we were heading for.

Bingo..!

And with a little back and forth over the plains we finally managed to position ourselves right in front of where these 2 male lions crossed the road. One of the Halali camp rangers told us that these 2 male lions were trying to take over a nearby pride, and it was indeed obvious these guys meant business!

And just when more cars arrived the guide from Halali Campsite was so kind to tell us where the females were hanging out: Sueda… Wooshhh…. I may have speeded a little bit!

And sure enough…! They were at Sueda.

It was time to go; we had to leave for Windhoek and catch our flight home, early next day. We couldn’t have wished for a better finale of our holiday. Etosha really is something… And I can’t wait to go back. Sooner than later: July 2020; at least that is the plan…

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Palmwag Concession, Kunene

Sun, 01 Mar 2020 13:10:12 +0000

Day 10 & 11 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

The Palmwag Concession was a convenient stop on our way to Etosha National Park, and we also wanted to explore the area further. It is possible to camp in the wild inside the concession, so that was the plan.

Day 10: Puros – Sesfontein – Palmwag Concession.

We drove from Puros to Sesfontein, completing our loop through the Hoanib riverbed, the Ganias plains and Puros Gorge. From Sesfontein we drove back south to Palmwag.

Again a spectacular scenery and at times quite a rough road, but a comfortable drive compared with the riverbeds.

I had visited the Palmwag Concession a year earlier. It’s not very rich in wildlife and the roads are mostly incredibly bumpy, as you mainly drive over loose rocks. Its red scenery is as spectacular as unique and I wanted to share this with Mega. I also wanted to camp in the wild inside the concession, hoping to perhaps see Black Rhino, which still roam freely in the concession.

It turned out that camping inside the Palmwag Concession is very straight forward: you just get a permit at the entrance, they give you a simple map and point out where to camp, and where not, and off you go.

Again nothing spectacular in terms of wildlife, except some zebra, springbok and oryx. We did see some elephants, but from great distance.

We were too late to reach one of the more remote assigned camping sites, so we decided to camp just somewhere in the middle of nowhere, away from any water source, as we didn’t want to disturb any wildlife coming out for a drink at night. The almost full moon made for a beautiful sky, a nice end to a long day.

Day 11 – 13: Palmwag Concession – Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha National Park

A big day ahead, as today we would drive to Etosha, the final destination of our journey. I had been to Etosha a year earlier and couldn’t wait to show Mega around! But we first wanted to search for Black Rhino, as seeing them here in this mars-like landscape would be something…

No, not a sunrise. A moon set..! Just when the sun was about to rise though, on the complete opposite side.

Bush toilet. It wasn’t easy to dig a hole in this rocky terrain…! And in case you want to know: you burn your toilet paper first, and then you carefully burry everything, not leaving any trace.

And that was Palmwag. Despite relative little wildlife and poor roads its red landscape is unique and the chance so see Black Rhino in such a unique scenery will probably make me come back again one day…

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Puros & Himba Tribe, Kaokoland

Sun, 01 Mar 2020 10:54:11 +0000

Day 8 until 10 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

We had chosen to drive to Puros mainly because we wanted to visit a traditional Himba tribe village. Also the campsite was a very nice place to relax a little and enjoy some of its comforts, while still being completely in the bush, and a lot of wildlife!

Day 8: Hoanib riverbed – Puros

Arriving at the Hoarusib riverbed, which would lead us to Puros.

The Puros Gorge. During the dry season the riverbeds in north western Namibia look completely dry, but water is actually flowing fairly close under the surface and here and there reaches the surface.

Our campsite for the next two nights, the Puros Ngatutanga Camp. What a spectacular location, on the edge of the riverbed. Hot showers, toilet and a kitchen setup, what a luxury! No electricity, but that was no problem.

Day 8: Puros

Through the campsite we arranged a local guide, who was willing to bring us to a nearby Himba village. So that was the first program of the day. We were super excited, as the Himba were on my wish list since my first brief encounter, a year earlier at Palmwag.

A traditional Himba village, near Puros. This is not a tourist destination and people live here as they’ve done for thousands of years. There were only a few women and children when we visited. It turned out that most of the men work weekdays in nearby Purros. Also most of the kids stay in Purros to go to school and usually stay with family. They all come back for the weekend.

A traditional Himba village consists of a few different small huts, each with their own purpose.

A Himba woman preparing a traditional perfumed red paste, Otjize. The Himba women use this on their skin and hair, against sunburn and simply to look more beautiful. The paste is a mix of red ochre, butter, fat and scented with myrrh.

The best souvenir of all…? The aromatic mixture of fragrant wood ash and herbs! The Himba burn this mixture and “bath” themselves in the perfumed smoke.

We left the village and decided to explore the Purros riverbed. Elephants roam around here as well, but the day before we had seen a lot of giraffes and we wanted to particularly see more of them.

This giraffe really has a completely different pattern than all others. I’m not sure whether or not this is a different species…

Mega loves giraffes, but it’s not easy to get anywhere near them. Particularly when outside the car…

We spent midday and lunch relaxed at the camp, fo a change. In the afternoon we decided to explore another part of the Hoarusib riverbed and to go watch sunset from a huge granite rock outcrop in the middle of the valley.

The Hoarusib riverbed near Puros. We’ll be back, to explore further upstream, northwards towards eventually the Epupa Falls, at the border with Angola.

Back at our camp we were surprised by this rather relaxed giraffe, who was casually wondering through the campgrounds. A perfect end of the day.

What else do we want… Well, we were hoping for some elephants to pass by, but they didn’t. You can’t have it all….

Last photo of the day, with an UV flashlight. It turned out there were dozens of scorpions hiding in the bark of the tree in the middle of our campsite.

Day 10: Puros – Palmwag Concession

Today we were heading for the Palmwag Concession, where we wanted to camp inside the concession, rather than outside. But first we wanted to see some more giraffes.

And that was Puros, land of giraffes and Himba. Beautiful scenery, hardly any other tourists. It’s a little bit a wild-west out there; not an easy life for the locals, as there are not many jobs. So the locals spend most of their time hanging out in few local bars and the only little shop in the village, often drunk…

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Hoanib riverbed, Damaraland

Sun, 01 Mar 2020 10:13:16 +0000

Day 7 & 8 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

We enjoyed the Aba Huab riverbed so much, that we wanted to explore other dry riverbeds. So after our quick emergency stop in Opuwo we drove straight back to Sesfontein and into the Hoanib riverbed, from where we then later planned to drive to Puros, further north.

Day 7: Opuwo – Sesfontein – Hoanib riverbed

We left Opuwo early morning for Sesfontein, taking a bit more time than the day before, to admire the gigantic Baobab trees along the road. It’s quite a spectacular sight!

Less than half an hour west of Sesfontein you see the Hoanib riverbed valley open up in front of you. It’s hard to miss. And as soon as you leave the gravel road you know you’re in for some serious off-road driving…! Here and there the riverbed consists of half a meter deep white sand powder and it almost feels like driving through water. You don’t want to get stuck here and you have to be very careful not to hit anything hidden under the powder or perhaps drive into a hidden trench… Not for newbies!

We passed the recently opened Elephant camp, I guess a good alternative starting point. The riverbed narrows to only a few dozen meter and for the first time we see water flowing in the river. The muddy riverbanks are covered in thick high reed grass and quite challenging to navigate. Dozens of dead cows laid around in this part of the valley, not a nice sight… But clear signs of how hard life can be here.

Lunch in the middle of the riverbed. We hadn’t seen much wildlife yet and I was getting a bit worried that we may have left the Huab riverbed too soon…

Less than half an hour after our lunch things started to change and look a lot better.

I was really worried too soon…! We caught up with this large herd of desert elephants, including a young baby of just a month old. Despite the baby they were very relaxed and it seemed they didn’t pay much attention to us.

Mom clearly keeping an eye on us…!

Time for an elephant nap, so we decided to drive ahead, knowing we’d see them again later that day.

As there was plenty of wildlife in the area we decided to stay and catch up with the elephants in the afternoon.

Not easy to get to, but a beautiful viewpoint with 360 degrees views of the Hoanib riverbed. We really enjoyed to look into the riverbed from above and see herds of elephant, giraffe, oryx, springbok and flocks of ostrich make their way through the valley.

We decided to spend the rest of the afternoon around this area and already looked out for a safe place to camp, a bit away from the riverbed itself.

The herd had caught up with us. Mom tried to encourage her baby to forage for some roots, but I think that was a bit too soon…

Suddenly we ran into a herd of panicking springbok, clearly spooked by something… We drove onto the sandy riverbanks and sure enough, we soon found fairly fresh lion tracks! Would a dream come true…? I had spend a lot of time reading about them, and their distribution, and I had chosen our route of these couple of days with deep in my mind the hope to see these elusive cats…

Even this giraffe was clearly weary of danger.

We followed the lion tracks, which clearly led in and out of several patches of bush, but eventually into some bush where no tracks led away from…! Would the lions be sleeping in those bushes..? We couldn’t see anything from the car, but I was almost sure they were… I marked the place on my GPS and the plan was to come back later, around sunset, hoping they would come out…

The sun started to set; we were hoping the elephants would come this way.

We didn’t have to wait long! I guess the elephants also knew there were lions in the area and with a baby elephant it was much safer to spend the night away from the riverbed on the more open plains just north.

An increasingly spectacular scenery evolved… By now this herd was completely ignoring us and allowed us to slowly follow them, further away from the riverbed.

Too perfect… And time to leave the herd alone, hoping to find them again the next day.

We drove back to the lion tracks. It was getting dark fast we decided to just wait in the car for it to get completely dark. So there we were, in the small sand dunes on the Hoanib riverbank, patches of bush all around. Engine off, flashlights ready, adrenaline slowly increasing. An eery silence… I thought “no way”… What are the chances to actually see desert lions? But there are fresh tracks nearby…!

It was almost dark. All of a sudden I thought to see a dark vague shadow slowly move in front of our car… It was too dark to see what it was… I switched on the lights of the car… Oh my god….

We couldn’t believe it! Right in front of our car, a big female desert lion! She stood still, looked at us and continued her walk. Twenty meters further she decided to lay down, in the soft desert sand.

A second female lion appeared, a bit more skittish. She didn’t like the flashlight, so we tried not to bother her.

We spend about half an hour with the two lions. They initially moved slowly through the dunes, regularly laying down and at one stage chasing a springhare. They got clearly more and more into hunting mode, and it was time for us to leave them alone… What an unforgettable experience!

We drove to what we thought was the safest spot to spend the night camping, away from the riverbed and surrounded by a sea of sand. We had dinner around a campfire, while every 5 minutes I scanned the area with my flashlight, just in case…. Another perfect day and night in the Namibian bush!

Day 8: Hoanib riverbed – Puros

First things first! Back to where we saw the lions last night! Well, it didn’t take long to find their tracks. We followed them, to only find out that he had followed our car tracks, to literally the edge of the riverbed itself, a few hundred meters away from where we had camped… I guess they were curious, but not curious enough to cross the open plains, completely exposed.

Tracks on tracks.

We followed the lion tracks for an hour, but eventually lost them… Time for breakfast, keeping a close eye on the surrounding bushes…!

And sure enough, the herd of elephants made it back into the riverbed. We spend some time with them and then decided to make a move, towards our next destination.

We said goodbye to this friendly herd of elephants, which we had now followed for about 24 hours. What an absolutely incredible experience. I could probably do this for weeks! And we’ll certainly be back for more.

Today we wanted to continue through the Hoanib riverbed and then drive north to Purros, through the so-called Purros Gorge.

The plains between the Hoanib riverbed and the Hoarusib riverbed towards Puros are a spectacular land of nothingness. I believe these are the Ganias plains, but am not sure.

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Aba Huab riverbed, Damaraland

Sun, 01 Mar 2020 08:12:55 +0000

Day 4 until 6 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

We really wanted to see desert-adapted elephants, so we had decided to spend as long as necessary in the Aba Huab riverbed; it’s a large area, and further downstream there are some areas where water comes to the surface, even during extreme draught. A lifeline for wildlife here, so if there’s elephants in the area, that should be the place to be; for them, and therefore for us!

Day 5: Doros Crater – Aba Huab riverbed

We arrived in De Riet and went to the local visitor centre, hoping someone could help us find desert elephants; 5 minutes later we drive upriver with one of the locals, who assured us to find them for us.

We didn’t have to search very long… Our first desert elephants! They give me goosebumps, every single time…

What an awesome place this is; hard to believe that there are hardly any other people visiting this riverbed. The scenery is spectacular and wildlife is abundant; within an hour we did not only see desert elephants, but also oryx, springbok and giraffe. And you can drive pretty much anywhere you like, you’re not bound to any roads. Be careful near Camel Thorn trees though, the riverbed is often filled with branches with long and sharp thorns…

We liked it so much that we decided to spend more time in this area and asked our guide if he knew any good place for us to camp… Oh yes, he did…!

Fast-forward: this was a camping site straight from a movie..! I created a waypoint on my GPS, drove our guide back to De Riet and then returned to our camp site for the night, just as the sun started to set.

Our campsite at the foot of a massive granite ridge, next to an ancient cave used by the bushmen.

Diner in a cave used in the past by the traditional bushmen; the cave’s ceiling is covered with black soot from fires and at the back of the cave the bushmen left some rock paintings.

Another perfect Namibian night, camping in the wild under the stars somewhere in the Huab riverbed, far away from the nearest other people. The bushmen knew where to hangout!

Day 5: Aba Huab riverbed

Early morning we drove straight to a couple of nearby sand dunes. We had passed these the day before and thought it would be a perfect place to wait for sunrise.

From the dunes we drove back to the Huab riverbed, to try to find again the desert elephants and explore some of the smaller riverbeds and sand dunes in the area.

The dry riverbed was home to quite a lot of giraffes. They weren’t very skittish, I guess because the locals from De Riet regularly let their goats graze nearby.

Time to spend some time with desert elephants again! We knew the direction they had gone the other day, so it was fairly straight forward to find them again.

A day earlier we had promised some of the kids in De Riet we would come back to visit the village. A big bag of lollies was much appreciated and a great ice-breaker.

The village kitchen. The village is regularly raided by desert elephants in search for food, so the village food supplies are mostly kept centrally. Easier to defend…

All goats are now kept in a single large enclosure with a iron fence, covered with thick canvas. This is against desert lions, which regularly broke into the more vulnerable traditional individual family goat enclosures, sometimes killing dozens of goats in a single night.

Time for lunch. We had seen fresh lion tracks the day before and decided to stay away from the riverbed itself, with too many trees and bushes to perhaps overlook some lions… These few lone trees at the edge of the valley seemed perfect, but just when we wanted to get out of our car I realised that the ground under the tree was covered with bones and skulls…! And was probably the perfect place for lions to spend a couple of days with a kill…!

But, unfortunately, no lions!

After lunch, the moment I was waiting for!

The day before we were caught in a hefty sandstorm and our guide had told us that this time of the year in the afternoon the wind starts to pick up and eventually creates a sand storm blowing through the riverbed. So this afternoon I planned to try to find a herd of desert elephants, as I visualised them walk into the sandstorm, late afternoon, in beautiful afternoon light… That sounded too good to be true… Almost!

Waiting for the perfect moment… A nice line-up, sandstorm and afternoon light. Easier said than done.

And then it happened…!

I got so excited that I simply couldn’t hold my camera still and mostly forgot to check settings but, hey, these are not bad!

Again, what an incredible experience!

I left our car and tried to sneak up to this flock of ostriches on foot, and from behind some sand dunes. They somehow found out… Or was it the elephants..?

Time to find another place to set up camp. This time we wanted to be closer to the riverbed and perhaps see some wildlife pass through at night. We still somehow wanted to stay at a safe place as well, and this riverbank turned out perfect!

Completely exhausted from the excitement of the day we decided to call it a day and enjoy some sundowners at the edge of the Huab riverbed. With the setting sun and sand blowing through the riverbed the riverbed literally seemed to burn. A perfect end to another spectacular day in the bush and great place to spend the night. We did see a pair of jackals pass by just after sunset, but that was it.

Day 6: Aba Huab riverbed – Sesfontein – Opuwo

We woke up early, as the riverbed was covered in a thick mist! The sun started to rise and after the spectacular setting the day before I was hoping to perhaps find the elephants again, this time with some mist and sunrise…!

Sunrise, mist and the Huab riverbed – perfect start of the day! Almost… Unfortunately the elephants were nowhere to be seen, but that means I have to come back one day, for that picture which is now stuck in my head…

We found the elephants a bit later further upriver, when the mist had given way for sand.

OK, in elephant body language this means: “you’re in my way, you have to move”. And so we did… Slowly.

We said goodbye to the Aba Huab riverbed and made our way to Twyfelfontein for a quick fuel stop and onwards to Sesfontein and the next riverbed, the Hoanib.

We arrived in Sesfontein around lunch time and the plan was to continue to the Hoanib riverbed. Unfortunately we had made a mistake by assuming there was an ATM in Sesfontein. There was not… We didn’t have enough cash. Our next destination was Puros, so we had no other choice than to drive to the nearest ATM, which was in Opuwo, a more than 2 hours drive away… I was hoping to be able to drive to Opuwo and back to at least Sesfontein, and then have an early start the next day, into the Hoanib riverbed.

Once in Opuwo that was a bit too much asked for; we were tired, and decided to do some shopping and spend the night at the Opuwo Country Lodge. An excellent place and we did not regret the little luxury of a good shower and normal toilet, the first in 5 days…

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Spitzkoppe

Sat, 29 Feb 2020 14:06:24 +0000

Day 2 & 3 of 18 – Namibia Safari Trip – 2019

Our first destination was Spitzkoppe, as this really had become my wife’s dream, ever since she had seen my photos of my trip to Namibia and Botswana a year ago. And camping at Spitzkoppe is indeed absolutely spectacular, with the bald granite peaks as backdrop, a sky filled with billions of stars and your nearest invisible neighbour at least a hundred meters away.

Spitzkoppe was also the only place I had booked in advance, as the decision to go to Namibia was made just a week before departure from Bali, when we finally gave up on trying to get a visa for Zambia, our originally planned safari destination. From Spitzkoppe onwards we would just decide on a daily basis where to go; a true adventure!

Day 2: Windhoek – Spitzkoppe

We arrived in Spitzkoppe early afternoon, having done some major shopping in Windhoek earlier in the morning. The plan was to spend the next couple of days camping in the wild, so we made sure we had enough supplies to last for at least 10 days.

In the afternoon we explored Spitzkoppe, with of course a visit to the famous Rock Arch.

After “must-visit” Spitzkoppe our itinerary was completely blank and the only preparation I had done was design a rough route up north through Damaraland and onwards to Kaokoland, as much as possible off-road through mostly dry riverbeds and other wilderness, in search for particularly desert elephants and lions. The plan was to camp as much as possible in the wild, or at least in real bush campsites.

Day 3: Spitzkoppe – Rhino Trust Camp – Doros area

Our first full day in the bush and it couldn’t start better waking up in this spectacular setting! Today we planned to drive to the Rhino Trust Camp and either camp there or continue further north and camp somewhere in the wild, on our way to the Huab riverbed. We were not in a rush though…

Bye bye Spitzkoppe, we’ll be back!

From Spitzkoppe we drove to Uis, an old tin mine village. Here we turned southwest towards Henties Bay and then left the main road up northwest, more or less around the base of Brandberg, with 2500 meters Namibia’s tallest mountain. Little did we know that we would not see any other cars or people anymore until late next day…

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Baluran National Park – East Java

Sat, 11 Mar 2017 05:38:47 +0000

Baluran National Park in East Java is one of Indonesia’s most distinctive wildlife landscapes. Often referred to as the “Africa of Java”, the park is known for its wide open savanna, scattered acacia trees and the dramatic silhouette of Mount Baluran, a dormant volcano rising above the plains.

Located near the northeastern tip of Java, Baluran protects a unique ecosystem of grasslands, monsoon forest, coastal mangroves and seasonal wetlands. This diversity of habitats supports a surprisingly rich wildlife population, making the park one of the best places on Java to observe large mammals and birds in open landscapes.

The Savanna of Baluran

The heart of the park is the Bekol savanna, an expansive grassland surrounded by monsoon forest and low volcanic hills. During the dry season the landscape turns golden and dusty, resembling the savannas of East Africa.

Acacia trees scattered across the plains provide shade for wildlife and create one of the most iconic landscapes in East Java. The savanna lies at the foot of Mount Baluran, a dormant volcano that gives the park its name and forms a striking backdrop to the grasslands.

These open plains are the best place to observe wildlife, particularly during the early morning and late afternoon when animals move out of the surrounding forest to graze.

Wildlife of Baluran National Park

The most visible large mammals in the park are Javan rusa deer, which often roam the savanna in large herds. Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times to observe them grazing in the open grasslands.

During the heat of the day, most animals retreat into the shade of the surrounding forest.

Another common species is the water buffalo, which frequently gather around waterholes. These muddy pools provide both cooling relief from the heat and protection against parasites.

Deer and Grazing Animals

Despite its relatively small size, Baluran supports an impressive range of wildlife.

The park’s official flagship species is the banteng, a wild cattle species that once roamed widely across Java and Bali. Today the endangered banteng survives mainly in a few protected areas, including Baluran, Ujung Kulon National Park in West Java and Alas Purwo National Park in East Java.

Although banteng were once abundant here, their numbers have declined significantly. One of the reasons is the spread of invasive acacia trees, which were originally introduced to prevent forest fires but have since overgrown large parts of the savanna, reducing grazing areas for herbivores.

Predators of Baluran

Baluran is also home to several elusive predators.

The most famous is the Javan leopard (macan tutul), one of the rarest big cats in Southeast Asia. These solitary predators are extremely difficult to observe, spending most of their time in dense forest and hunting primarily at night.

Another predator found in the park is the Asiatic wild dog, or dhole (ajag). These highly social hunters move in packs and prey mainly on deer, and occasionally young banteng.

Birds of the Savanna

Baluran is also well known for its birdlife.

One of the most iconic species is the green peafowl, whose spectacular courtship displays occur mainly between August and November. During this period males fan out their colourful tail feathers while calling loudly to attract females.

Peafowl are also remarkable fliers. At sunrise and sunset they often fly between feeding areas and the tall trees where they roost at night — a spectacular sight against the open savanna.

Monkeys and Smaller Wildlife

Several primate species inhabit the forests around the savanna.

Long-tailed macaques are the most common and are often seen near park roads. Unfortunately many visitors still feed them, which has made some populations increasingly aggressive.

More elusive is the Javan lutung, a shy leaf-eating monkey that spends much of its time moving through the treetops of the forest.

Baluran also supports a wide variety of reptiles, particularly during the wet season when many species become active at night.

Seasons in Baluran

One of the most striking aspects of Baluran is the strong seasonal transformation of the landscape.

During the dry season the park becomes extremely arid, with much of the vegetation turning brown and dusty. At this time wildlife concentrates around the few remaining water sources, including several man-made wells that provide essential water for animals.

When the rains arrive, the landscape changes rapidly. Grasslands turn green again and flowering plants appear across the savanna, attracting birds and insects.

These seasonal shifts create very different photographic opportunities throughout the year.

Photography in Baluran

Baluran offers some of the most photogenic landscapes on Java.

The open savanna makes wildlife easier to observe and photograph than in many other Indonesian forests. Early morning and late afternoon provide the best light, when animals are active and the low sun casts warm tones across the grasslands.

Sunset scenes with deer or peafowl silhouetted against the savanna and Mount Baluran are among the park’s most memorable photographic moments.

Visiting Baluran National Park

The main entrance to Baluran National Park is located at Wonorejo, about thirty minutes from Banyuwangi in East Java.

The park is relatively small and road access is limited, with most visitors travelling along the main route toward the Bekol savanna and the coastal area of Bama.

Accommodation inside the park has remained closed to the public since the pandemic, so visitors usually stay in guesthouses near the park entrance.

A small canteen can sometimes be found at Bekol and another at Bama beach, but these are not always open on weekdays, so bringing sufficient water and food is recommended.

Wildlife viewing is best early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when temperatures are cooler and animals move out onto the savanna. Midday is generally quiet, as most animals retreat into the shade of the surrounding forest.

Related Destinations in East Java

East Java contains some of the most diverse landscapes on the island of Java. From volcanic mountains to savannas and coastal rainforest, the region offers a remarkable variety of ecosystems.

Other destinations in East Java explored on this site include:

Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park
One of Indonesia’s most dramatic volcanic landscapes, where Mount Bromo rises from a vast ash caldera beneath the towering Mount Semeru.

Kawah Ijen
A striking volcanic crater lake known for its turquoise waters and traditional sulfur mining on the rim of the volcano.

Meru Betiri National Park
A remote coastal rainforest reserve known for sea turtle nesting beaches and dense tropical forest.

Alas Purwo National Park
One of the oldest protected forests on Java, where monsoon forest, coastal savannas and remote beaches shelter wildlife including banteng, deer and monkeys.

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Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park – East Java

Wed, 29 Jan 2014 03:42:00 +0000

Gunung Bromo is one of Indonesia’s most iconic volcanoes and forms the dramatic centerpiece of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park in East Java. Covering roughly 800 square kilometres, the park protects one of the most spectacular volcanic landscapes in Southeast Asia.

At the heart of the park lies the vast Tengger caldera, the remnant of an ancient volcano. Rising from this enormous crater are several younger volcanic cones, including Mount Bromo (2,329 m) and the perfectly shaped Mount Batok (2,470 m). Dominating the southern skyline is Mount Semeru (3,676 m) — also known as Mahameru — the highest mountain on Java and one of the island’s most active volcanoes.

One of the most remarkable features of the caldera is the “Sea of Sand” (Laut Pasir), an immense volcanic plain covering more than 5,000 hectares at an altitude of around 2,100 metres.

The Tengger Caldera

Inside the vast Tengger caldera five volcanic cones rise from the ash plains:

Mount Bromo (2,329 m)
Mount Batok (2,470 m)
Mount Kursi (2,581 m)
Mount Watangan (2,661 m)
Mount Widodaren (2,650 m)

The surrounding landscape feels almost otherworldly. Vast grey ash plains stretch across the caldera floor while volcanic ridges rise sharply from the sand sea.

The road across this landscape leads directly toward Mount Bromo, where visitors cross the Sea of Sand before climbing the final staircase to the rim of the crater.

Sunrise at Mount Bromo

One of the most famous experiences in Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park is watching the sunrise over the Tengger caldera. Before dawn, visitors travel across the Sea of Sand to reach the high viewpoints overlooking the volcanic landscape.

The best known viewpoints are located on Mount Penanjakan, where the first light of the day reveals the dramatic alignment of volcanoes across the caldera: the smoking crater of Mount Bromo, the symmetrical cone of Mount Batok, and in the distance the towering Mount Semeru, Java’s highest and most active volcano.

Two main viewpoints exist:

Penanjakan 1 – closer to the village of Cemoro Lawang
Penanjakan 2 – higher and further away, offering a wider panoramic view

As the sun rises behind the eastern mountains, the volcanic landscape gradually emerges from the darkness, with mist and volcanic ash plains creating one of the most iconic scenes in Indonesia.

Today most visitors reach the viewpoints by jeep, travelling across the Sea of Sand before dawn. The popularity of these sunrise views can make the area crowded, particularly during weekends and holiday periods.

Mount Bromo

Mount Bromo itself is one of the most accessible active volcanoes in Indonesia.

Visitors cross the Sea of Sand before climbing a long staircase that leads to the rim of the crater. From the top, it is possible to look directly into the smoking volcanic vent, where sulphurous fumes constantly rise from the depths of the volcano.

Despite the growing number of visitors, the landscape around Bromo still retains a powerful atmosphere shaped by wind, volcanic ash and the immense scale of the caldera.

The Tengger People

The highlands around Bromo are home to the Tengger people, one of the few remaining Hindu communities on the island of Java.

Their religion is closely related to Balinese Hinduism but contains strong animist traditions. The Tengger people are believed to be descendants of the Majapahit Empire, the last great Hindu kingdom of Java.

According to local tradition, when Islam spread across Java centuries ago, many followers of the Majapahit kingdom moved into the remote volcanic highlands where their traditions survived.

Cemoro Lawang

The village of Cemoro Lawang, located on the rim of the Tengger caldera, is the main gateway to the national park.

Surrounded by steep volcanic slopes, the village sits amidst a patchwork of fertile vegetable fields where local farmers grow crops such as potatoes, cabbage, carrots and onions.

The volcanic soil of the Tengger highlands is exceptionally fertile, and agriculture remains an important part of daily life for the local communities.

Landscapes of the Caldera

Although Mount Bromo is the most famous feature of the park, the surrounding landscapes are equally remarkable.

The Sea of Sand gradually transitions into grassy savanna landscapes on the southern side of the caldera, where rolling green hills create a striking contrast to the volcanic ash plains.

These hills — sometimes referred to as the “Teletubbies Hills” — form one of the quieter and less visited parts of the national park.

Other Landscapes of East Java

East Java contains some of the most dramatic landscapes on the island of Java. Active volcanoes rise above vast ash plains, while savannas and tropical forests support diverse wildlife and remote national parks.

Several of these environments are explored through photographic journeys on this site:

Kawah Ijen
A striking crater lake known for its turquoise waters and traditional sulfur mining.

Baluran National Park
A unique savanna ecosystem often called the “Africa of Java”, where deer, banteng and peafowl roam beneath Mount Baluran.

Meru Betiri National Park
A remote rainforest and coastal reserve known for sea turtle nesting beaches.

Alas Purwo National Park
One of the oldest protected forests on Java, with monsoon forest, savannas and remote coastal landscapes.

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