Ruteng & Cancar Spiderweb Rice Fields
Manggarai Highlands – The Iconic Lingko of Flores
In the small village of Cancar, about 17 km west of Ruteng in central Flores, the rice fields unfold in a spectacular spider-web pattern. These unique circular fields, known as lingko, are among the most iconic cultural landscapes in Indonesia.
The shape reflects the traditional communal land system of the indigenous Manggarai people. At the center lies the lodok, the ritual point where ceremonies were held and land was divided. From this central pole, triangular segments radiate outward like slices of a pie — each allocated to a family according to size and status. Over generations, further subdivisions created the intricate web-like patterns visible today.
The best panoramic view is from Cara Village, a small hilltop viewpoint overlooking several lingko fields — a must-visit highlight when staying in Ruteng.
The Cultural Meaning of the Lingko
Long before wet-rice cultivation, Manggarai communities practiced shifting agriculture. The lingko fields were communally owned and divided during rituals led by the tu’a teno, the traditional “Lord of the Land.”
At the lodok, a wooden pole and stone symbolize the union of male and female, heaven and earth, and the creation of life. When a new lingko was established, a water buffalo sacrifice was required.
Today, while the fields are primarily used for wet-rice cultivation, much of the original ritual context has faded — but the extraordinary geometric landscape remains.
Ruteng – Cool Highland Capital of Manggarai
Ruteng, capital of Manggarai Regency, sits in the lush highlands of central Flores. Surrounded by valleys and rice fields, it is one of Flores’ main rice-producing and coffee-growing regions.
Thanks to its elevation, Ruteng enjoys a cool, refreshing climate. The town has supermarkets, small restaurants, a lively traditional market, and the prominent red-roofed Ruteng Cathedral at its center.
Nearby highlights include:
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Kampung Ruteng (Ruteng Pu’u) with its traditional compang stone altar
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Caci whip-fighting ceremonies during weddings and important rituals
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The scenic drive through the Manggarai Highlands
Facilities
There are no tourist facilities in Cara Village or Cancar.
Ruteng (16–17 km away) offers accommodation, restaurants, markets, and transport connections.
How to Get There
From Ruteng, drive 17 km west to Cancar (about 30–40 minutes).
From the Cancar terminal, it’s a 1 km walk uphill to the Cara Village viewpoint.
Visitors are expected to stop at the adat house in Cara Village to sign the guestbook and leave a small donation.